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Seemingly random lines on the surface I'm getting seemingly random lines scattered across the top surface of my prints:
Printer: Anycubic i3 mega
Slicer: Cura 3.2.1
Printer chosen in Cura: Prusa i3, Gcode flavor changed to RepRap
Cura Profile: Fine, "Outer before inner walls" enabled
What might be the reason? | This is the result of travel moves passing through/over the top surface. The combing setting can prevent this type of move (for walls, infill or top), and z-hop can avoid making any mark during these travels.
Both settings will affect speed. Z-hop will be active on every layer, for example. | It seems like the issue may only be that your nozzle has developed a bit of oozing. The g code likes to repeat the same patterns for at least a few layers every time it changes patterns and if it does the same pattern on the top 3-4 layers than by the time it reaches the last layer on the top that pattern will actuall... |
Ender 3 Extruder First Layer Perfect But Then Starts Clicking Afterwards All of a sudden I seem to be having a lot of issues with under extruding on my Ender 3. The bottom layer (of height 0.1 mm) prints perfectly fine. This is done at 15 mm/s speed. However, The moment the print moves to layer 2 and above (a... | Not allowed to comment, so have to answer:
The temperature sensor is a thermally sensitive resistor. Unfortunately, the temperature is near the high limit of that sensor, and the manufacturing tolerances are very significant. That is why a temperature tower is important for each printer, as well as each filament. (I ... | A temperature of 200 °C is fine. You probably have heat creep from a Bowden style extruder. The filament starts getting softer due to heat creeping up from the hot nozzle. Filament expands and clogs the tube causing gear clicking. Usually there is a heat sink at the the Bowden tube connection. You need to coo... |
What is this called and where can I buy a replacement? In the image, there is an object circled in blue on the anet a8 printer that I need to buy a replacement of, however, I can not find it online, please help. | This is the throat block for direct drive extrusion, Anet8 is a cheap clone of Prusa printers, so it's easy to find parts for Anet printers.
This is one extruder kit that may help your needs, 1 Unidades Impresora 3D makerbot MK8 Extrusora De extrusión de Aluminio Bloque de DIY Kit para Reprap i3. This is a link for A... | Like @ZuOverture said the name of this component is the filament drive. Most of the manufactures sell the whole extrusion device already assembled, to avoid mismatches between the components of the extrusion device. If your device is somehow damaged, and without possibilities to be used in the printer the easiest solut... |
Makerbot Replicator 2 Halts during print I am running a MakerBot Replicator 2. During the print, the printer just stops executing and I am running out of ways to troubleshoot.
After restarting, I can load and extrude filament.
I have replaced the SD card, and even borrowed one from another working replicator, and the... | There are a few options. First your board could be overheating etc. That is harder to verify without some overpriced replacements. So to start lets take everything apart (photo and labeling is Strongly recommended). Then simply put it back together. Hopefully it is just a loose connection. | Seems like others have had similar issues: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/engineering/topic:3849. Their issue was a bit more mechanical than firmware, though. I hope this helps!
You might also want to check the software you're using to slice the file. Sometimes the software doesn't slice the file properly, which c... |
What is this weird support line doing in this print? I am a newbie to 3D printing and ran into a weird infill line on my second 3D printing object on a new Qidi X-Pro machine (which works great). I've included a screenshot of the infill line, which is deliberately printed the full height of the object. I'm thinking thi... | I do not know the Qidi slicer, but if you look closely, you will see this line is thinner than the normal support infill lines. You could try to visualize the G-code in a viewer, usually this can be done in the slicer itself, but online viewers are available. The viewer will not only show the printed lines, but also sh... | Here have a posible solution -> How to remove unwanted filament trails from sharp corners
I think, that can be a combination of z-hopping and combing-mode in the slicer that you use. |
Wrong Z-Axis movement in G-Code Alright so I bought a broken UP mini. There was only a defect on the board so I connected the components to a Duet 2 Wifi.
Everything is fully operational and I can manually move all axes correctly using the interface as well as homing them.
The problem is that when I try to slice a mod... | You could put the z endstop at the top, and flip the motor connector to make it move the other direction. This should make it home to the top near the nozzle, and then move downward during the print.
Otherwise, you'll have to tweak the firmware configuration and reflash. | You could put the z endstop at the top, and flip the motor connector to make it move the other direction. This should make it home to the top near the nozzle, and then move downward during the print.
Otherwise, you'll have to tweak the firmware configuration and reflash. |
Why is my print displacing along the y-axis by 2-3 cm? I am encountering a problem with this ID3 printer using ABS -- at some point during the print the print head displaces on the y-axis by 2-3 centimeters. I cannot pinpoint how or why it is doing this. It has displaced in the positive Y direction and in the negative ... | This has happened to me in the past and here are a few things that I determined could have been the cause:
Limit Switch triggered. My coworker was able to repeat the issue by manually triggering a limit switch during the print. Somehow, this seemed to cause the relative axis to shift on his MakerBot Replicator 2.
Ski... | In my case the solution was to use Slic3r instead of Cura. Cura has some issues. |
slic3r: Can I vary the infill percentage for different heights of my model? How can I vary the infill percentage for different layer heights of my model?
Context: The bottom part of my model needs about 20% infill. The geometry of the top part of the model (mostly cones of various sizes) prints well with 0% infill an... | Your question is very similar to Different infill in the same part and Using multiple infill types within one model [duplicate]. The difference is that you specifically ask for Slic3r and a variation in layer height infill percentage.
Actually this answer describes using "helper volumes" in Ultimaker Cura to set dif... | Let's assume the model is 75mm high; the bottom portion (which needs 20% infill) is 40mm, and the top portion (which needs 0% infill) is 35mm.
Load your model into Slic3r.
Be sure your default fill is 20%.
Right click on the model, and select Settings.
Click "Load Generic".
Select Slab. This represents a cube which i... |
First time assemble of Anet A6 printer. Only fan works I bought an Anet A6-L printer (after some research I discovered that this is not a genuine Anet A6) and assembled it. The first time I plugged it in, the fan (fan 2, I believe) is the only thing that turns on. Also, the LCD screen (LCD2004 5 button display) only ha... | This definitely sounds like a problem with your wiring if you have a genuine Anet A6, the genuine A6 comes with a 12864 full graphic display. For sure, you are missing 1 flat ribbon cable (see below). Maybe this is causing the LCD not to light up and the SD card not functioning. As the "fan 2" is working, the board is ... | I also ordered an A8, but was sent a A6-L, after doing my homework, I am very happy. The A6-L is an upgraded A8. It uses same board as A6 but has a A8 display (5 button), that's why people have extra LCD spot. The A6-L is a better frame (full front), better carriage set up ( horizontal vs vertical, resulting in bette... |
Anyone tried Varathane water-based Wood Stain on Hatchbox Wood PLA? I printed parts for a Harry Potter wand with HatchBox Wood PLA, now I want to apply stain. I intended to try MinWax PolyShades wood stain, then noticed Varathane water-based wood stain is available at my local Rona hardware store. This seems a "healthi... | I ended up using Saman brand water-based wood stain, also from Rona hardware (a brand of Lowe's Canada). The selection of colours for Saman stains was greater than the Varathane stains.
I applied a single coat of colour #117 "Chamois" to the stem portion of the wand, and two coats of colour #120 "Dark Walnut" to the ... | Wood stains (as opposed to dyes, paints, etc.) work by having large particles that become lodged in the grain of the wood, yielding a result that varies in intensity with the grain of the wood and thereby brings out its beauty. It's unlikely that they will do what you want, or anything reasonable, on PLA that has wood ... |
What is the best 3D modeling software for a beginner on a 3D printed mini barrel project? My goal is to 3D print a 5 liter miniature barrel with a side stand, similar to this wooden one on Amazon. I want it to have a removable top so that a boxed wine bladder may be put inside, and there should be a hole on the top as ... | Your question begins in an inappropriate format for StackExchange, but you've ended it with one more appropriate by asking if Blender would work.
If you are willing to take the time to learn Blender, you are certain to discover that it will do as you require, and much much more. Your referenced model could be created u... | To the people saying 123design. I can only say I have been a blender user way before 3D printing was a thing and just cant get around learning 123design. It just feels so limited as it only have a few tools. Yes blender might have a hard learning curve but it does pay off in the future as you wont be limited to 3D prin... |
Nozzle heats up past the setpoint and increases I made a few successful prints since I got my CR-10 two weeks ago and I didn't run into any major trouble. The printer is new.
Today I set it to "preheat" mode while I was preparing the SD card with the settings being 210°C for the nozzle and 60°C for the bed. When I wan... | This is not an easy one to solve, the firmware of the printer should be keeping the printer at a certain temperature depending on the temperature setting and the current value. If the firmware is not able to keep the temperature at the requested level, but goes beyond that level, that could be considered "strange". As ... | A similar condition occurred in my 3D printer. I solved the same. I checked all my connection and I came to know that I connected the thermistor of the extruder in the wrong port. So just check the connection of your thermistor.
Actually my 3D printer circuit board frequently failed because of over current. I then a... |
A single angle, single phone model windshield mount -- a job for a 3D printer? My end goal is getting high quality dash footage from a 6 month road trip I'm going on. From my research, very few dash cams support 4k 30fps filming, and the ones that do overwrite their own footage really quick, so instead of that I'd like... | You'd need to print in a heat resistant material - ASA for example - and design the part for your needs, but this project is certainly feasible and doable with 3D printing. If that isn't enough for you, you could drill a hole to the internal cavity (it's best to have an infill pattern that does not split the internal c... | Why not try a GoPro camera? They now have 4K, image stabilized camera with all kinds of accessory mounts.
https://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero7-silver/CHDHC-601-master.html |
What is the biggest size of an object that iBox Nano can print? Since iBox Nano is the smallest public-production-available 3d Resin printer (and the cheapest so far), I assume it has a huge size limitation. So far I've only seen pictures of its outputs that are miniature things. I've never tried it nor have I seen it ... | On their website, I found the following picture, which states a build area of 40 mm x 20 mm x 90 mm (1.57" x 0,79" x 3.54"). | From their website I found a comparison between 300 microns down to 50 microns print quality. My answer would be somewhere around this range. |
Adding a Bowden extruder to a direct drive setup I currently have a single extruder (direct drive) Tronxy X8.
I am thinking about adding a second extruder, that I would use only occasionally. I really like the characteristics of the direct drive extruder, so I would not want to switch over to dual Bowden. Also adding ... | I'm an amateur and I used dual extruder printers but never built any.
It's probably a good idea, take care about the purge, retractions distances that may vary. On the filament feed side there shouldn't be interference from the different flexibility. Still it maybe good to place one reel on one side and the other on t... | I'm an amateur and I used dual extruder printers but never built any.
It's probably a good idea, take care about the purge, retractions distances that may vary. On the filament feed side there shouldn't be interference from the different flexibility. Still it maybe good to place one reel on one side and the other on t... |
Extruder motor not running during print job but working after I preheat the extruder and test it I have a Prusa i3 (from FLSun). I have assembled the printer, calibrated it (fairly decently), and have successfully demonstrated extrusion manually. However, when I try to run a print job (the G-code clearly contains E com... | According to all the information:
No reassignment of the extruder in the Gcode
You can extrude if you push the filament by hand
Extruder motor works when switched to Z driver
Z Motor works
I come to the conclusion that some of your electronics or the motor have fried.
What have fried? I tried to make a step by ste... | This should have been a comment: when you say "manual extrusion", do you mean moving filament by hand or using extruder position commands from printer menu? Is extruder motor working at all? You can for example plug it instead of a Z-motor to check.
Suggested points to check:
Motor wire connections, both on extruder... |
Nozzle jumps off the bed when using Marlin Mesh Bed Leveling I am using Marlin firmware with a RAMPS board on an Anet A8 printer.
The bed size for the printer is 220 x 220 mm and that is stated in the configuration.h file. When using mesh bed leveling, the nozzle jumps to the first corner on the bed perfectly after s... | None of the answers address your question to solve it! The only sensible contribution comes from a comment of @TomvanderZanden.
For the sensor to stay within the limits of the bed (considering the offset of the sensor and the size of the hotend carriage) you need to define where the sensor (plus carriage) may go to ... | The problem is in the code.
Please use these:
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 5
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define... |
How do I concave an image to create a 3D file for use in a 3D printer? How can I print an embossed image in a concaved shape?
Like a big saucer. I will use this an a mold for a project.
So far I've found lots of software with huge spread of features. It's sort of overwhelming. There is lots of ways to create images i... | What you describe, sounds like you want to create a lithophane; a pattern etched or engraved on a thin translucent base material (in your case a bowl) that can only be seen clearly when backlit with a light source behind it. Apparently you want to use it for another purpose.
Special software and or scripts that transf... | You may want to look up https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ it lets you do things like that |
How can I set the 1st layer after a raft in Slic3r to print at 1st layer speed When you add a raft in Slic3r, the first layer of the raft prints at the first layer speed. After the raft is finished, the first layer of the print prints at the standard speed. How can I make the first layer of the actual print slow down... | This is still work in progress, and here is what I have so far, but first:
A useful alternative for similar problems:
A problem very similar to this would be to use different settings for different parts of a model in Slic3r. For most settings, this can be achieved through modifier meshes.
Post processing scripts:
... | You shouldn't need to. The purpose of a slower first layer is to help with need adhesion. With a raft the first layer of the model is printing on the raft so it can go at regular speeds. |
Open Source 3D scanning I am trying to make a structured light 3D scanner using single camera, light projector and a turntable.
After days on Google I did not find any reliable open source project which I can get to work. SLStudio really seemed a good choice but did not compile properly.
I was wondering if anyone k... | I did find only one 3d scanner which uses structured light. There is many projects using a laser diode. And these systems are completely opensource.
Structured Light
Structured Light 3D Scanning by kylemcdonald
http://www.instructables.com/id/Structured-Light-3D-Scanning/?ALLSTEPS
Laser diode
Sardauscan
http... | BQ Ciclop 3D Scanner
Scan Volume: Bigger than 5 cm x 5 cm and smaller than 20 cm x 20 cm
Scanning Precision: 0.5 mm
All the necessary parts for Ciclop are included in this DIY kit, which comes unassembled.
This Ciclop 3D Scanner Parts List:
1 x Plastic parts( 1 set with 11 pcs)
1 x Arduino Uno R3 with USB cable
1 x ... |
Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public? I am currently working on parts for a custom prosthesis.
My main concern at the moment is to find biocompatible materials that can be 3D printed from a UP or a Reprap.
The piece would need to be in contact with the skin for extended periods of time, pr... | There are printers designed for medical use, and the manufacturers supply them with varying levels of certification and testing, however I've not seen a filament manufacturer certify their material as bio-compatible separate from the printer. The printing process changes the material slightly in the best case (and sign... | If you want to know something about what you are questioning, it is interesting to you to read http://e-nable.org/resources/prosthetics-students-consultation/
That's a link with complementary information how to print 3D as a volunteer.
I know that is not enough information about products, but I believe Nylon is the b... |
How to transport a 3D printer? Dismount needed? I need to transport my FDM 3D Printer because I am moving.
What are the precautions that one should take? Should I dismount the motors and axes? I would definitively unplug the electronics as far as reasonable and fix the motors to the frame so they don't slide during tr... | Yes, fix the motors and any other loose/movable parts. Remove the bowden tube if it's there, and any other parts that are sticking out. Put the whole thing in a a bag to protect from dust, and put the bag in a box to protect it from getting beat up. Remember to calibrate it when you're ready to set it up again. | You just need to take basic security actions. like fixing all movable parts simple as that |
Why the Ender 5 Pro can't remember the axis position or cant move back to home anymore? I am completely new to 3D Printing. I got my first printer a Creality Ender 5 Pro yesterday.
My problem
I did shutdown the printer without the axis being in home position (X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 320 instead of X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 0). I thought t... | Once you pull the plug or disable power to the stepper motors, the printer forgets its location. That is perfectly normal and exactly how it is supposed to work.
The printer knows where the printer volume is once you have "homed" the printer. Homing is done prior to printing with G-code G28 which should be pr... | Slightly unscrew the motor. Manually rig the Z-axis above its lowest point. Rescrew the motor back into place tightly. Then auto home it. |
Trouble printing Poppy Robot with SpiderBot For a university project, my partner and I need to print the robot Poppy. This is an open source robotic project, poppy-project.org.
We are printing it with a double extruder SpiderBot with PLA and HIPS as support material. Our principal issue is the weakness of the pieces w... | Having a bit more experience since my comment post above, I can offer up a possible solution. If your printer is able to print ABS, it works great with HIPS as support material. I've been printing boatloads of ABS models. When support is needed, the HIPS supports will bond reasonably well to the ABS, but when cooled, f... | Why not try using PVA(Polyvinyl alcohol) for support material.
I use it for my support material with PLA, and it dissolves in water.
here is a link to some on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-filament-natural-0-5kg/dp/B00MVIQASU/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1508539512&sr=1-3&keyword... |
Bed design for magnetic easy release when printing PLA I print on a glass bed covered with BuildTak. Prints stick well, release is difficult. They sell a mod, self adhesive magnetic sheet that holds a steel plate which in turn you put the BuildTak on making it easier to get your prints off by twisting the flexible stee... | Follow up:
I used the 6mil magnet, cut a sheet of thin steel, (about .5mm) to fit, added a layer of Buildtak and now it's much easier to remove prints, build surface is very flat. I assume you could deform the metal beyond the magnet's ability to flatten it but it works quite well. The metal was cut with sheet metal s... | Try using buildtak flex. https://www.buildtak.com/product/flexplate/
or cheaper alternatives:
http://www.printinz.com/printinz-plate-3d-printer-bed-upgrade/ |
How do I give 3D-printed parts in PLA a shiny smooth finish? The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA plastic look rough and uneven.
Would changing filament to a better one make any difference?
If not, what kind of methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects? | PLA parts can be finished with a coat of epoxy like XTC-3D from Smooth-On. This will smooth out the part and give it a pretty nice shine.
I've also had a fair amount of success sanding prints, giving them a coat of automotive filler primer, and using glossy spray paint.
You can also get great results with an acetone ... | I suggest using XTC-3D since your prints are small also you can add some UVO pigments in. It's difficult to use in large prints because has small working time. Anyway here is a print I did for a friend:
This now dead link shows more images and say how it is done. |
How to calculate the strength of a printed object? If I'm working with standard PLA, and I want to print a box that I can stand on without any risk of it breaking, is there any good way to calculate the appropriate print settings?
I know that structural strength comes from the infill. Knowing this, and knowing the di... | Strictly speaking, it is difficult to do calculations on these materials, but not impossible (I've heard about a few commercial analysis tools that do that). The FDM process (Fused Deposition Modeling) creates a product based of fused slices of material causing an anisotropic material (this means that the properties of... | A fast way to do this is by using SolidWorks.
You can draw the box in it and run a simulation test with the max load expected.
Here is a link on how to make dynamic load simulations work in SolidWorks, How to apply dynamic load in solidworks simulation ?
The catch in the process is that SolidWorks takes cubes and ... |
Is Tetrahydrofuran viable for dissolving PLA and sticking PLA objects together? According to Wikipedia, Tetrahydrofuran dissolves PLA. It also apparently dissolves PET.
THF is considered a relatively nontoxic solvent, with the median lethal dose (LD50) comparable to that for acetone.
Wikipedia further states that... | According to Shuichi Sato, Daiki Gondo, Takayuki Wada, Shinji Kanehashi & Kazukiyo Nagai: Effects of various liquid organic solvents on solvent‐induced crystallization of amorphous poly(lactic acid) film in Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Volume 129 Issue 3 (2013), p1607-1617source, Tetrahydrofuran is classifie... | From what I have read, THF is not super effective, it seems that Dichloromethane or DCM is actually a better solvent. Unfortunately I have no personal experience with either.
It is rather nasty though, as the LD50 is just 0.5 to 5 g/kg[1][2]. |
Is it a good idea to include thermal fuses in a DIY 3D printer design? 3D printing should be relatively safe, however, the inherent nature of 3D printers, with all of the heated parts, constitutes a fire risk. A well designed 3D printer should be designed to be as safe as possible, especially one used in the home... Ye... | Whether you should use a thermal fuse or not depends on what other safety measures you've taken. You can't look at the safety features of a printer in isolation, you need to look at what other measures are in place.
The main fire hazard in printers is unfortunately (still) the fact that some manufacturers use underrat... | I haven't found a good way to flood the entire machine, including the electronics, with CO2 gas or another extinguisher when the alarm sounds.
A servo or some other actuator attached to a fire extinguisher, and then attach it to a thermocouple or some other sensor. Maybe a knockoff Arduino, which the small ones are 2... |
Weird Movement and not homing https://photos.app.goo.gl/O6yPf3sDeV1yhS0C2
I tried to illustrate my problem in the videos above, two of them show the weird movement and the other shows me clicking on the home button repeatedly.
Some Info:
Marlin 1.1.8 or 2.0.0 (same problem in both)
Robotdyn RAMPS 1.4
0.9 angle step... | As far as I can see on the attached videos your homing movement is reversed.
as per Marlin, the homing for X shall move towards the left side and for Y to the back of the printer.
That could occur when: cable connectors to stepper motors are reversed, or the motor is assembled the other way (you can set reverse direct... | The problem was the logic of the endstops that were reversed |
What is the least expensive 3D printer? What is the least expensive 3D printer available today? I am looking for something suitable for general use in a home office. | Depends on your definition of "available" and your definition of "suitable for general use."
The cheapest 3D printers are mostly Kickstarter promises that take a year or more to ship, if they ever do. For example, the Peachy 3D printer Kickstarter just imploded and failed. There have been many other failed low-cost 3... | You can get an A8 3D printer on Gearbest at 149$, It's a version of an i3, with easy assemble and pre configured, and it have a suprising good quality.
I thinks is the best price/quality that you can find at the moment. It prints with a good quality by default and you can upgrade it if you need it without spending hun... |
Choice of lead for lead screw This video brought to my attention the 8 mm lead of the Ender 3's Z axis screw, which seems like an exceedingly bad choice from a standpoint of accuracy with respect to common grid alignments in the Z direction. In particular, with the stepper having 200 full steps per rotation, the 8 mm l... | I've not seen trapezoid lead screws with 5 mm lead, you can get 5 mm lead ball screws though.
On one printer I use 4 mm lead screws to get native 0.02 mm resolution (so 5 full steps for 0.1 mm, 10 for 0.2 mm, etc.). I also geared down 8 mm lead screws with a 2:1 ratio (e.g. to use a ... | You are delving into the darker recesses of 3D printing here!
ACME threads, anti-backlash nuts, ball-screws, etc. will ALL follow...
The simple answer is that the Z-axis screw on all the cheaper 3D printers are pure crap! They use 8mm With triangular threads because it they are cheap and most software works with it. ... |
Cura slicer, enforce Z move before layer change I am slicing with Cura and Slic3r and one important thing that I recently took my attention is that cura positions head in start point of the new layer and then lifts the nozzle. That caused my few printouts to fall as they collided with the nozzle.
Slic3r behavior is d... | To lift the head to prevent the nozzle to tip over your print you could use an option called Z hop in Cura. Just enter `hop' in the search box on the right side to make those options magically appear (in a recent version of Cura, e.g. version 3.x.x).
Other than Z hop there is no default action, or series of commands, ... | OK, after going via all the options I found that CURA has a combing mode which reduces retraction and offers another option which is Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling.
That solves my problem. |
Can I mix ABS and PLA when recycling filament? I'm thinking of recycling some filament from a couple of recently failed prints. I can reuse them in the future for basic prototypes, so I'm not concerned with whatever weird mixture of colors come out (they are of a few different colors).
The thing is, I have both PLA an... | This is not a good idea. Both filaments have different melting points, that of ABS being much higher than that of PLA. To melt the ABS you have to heat the plastic to the point where the PLA starts to degrade. | yes but you would have to experiment with the settings to see were it afectivly melts. |
DLP build plate adhesion Does anyone have tips on improving build plate adhesion in DLP printers? I've heard a thin layer of resin or UV glue applied to the plate will help, but we're not sure if we leave the resin/glue wet, or cure it before we start the print. Apologies for the ignorance here, but I'm just trying to ... | I have heard that adding a few pieces of masking tape to the print surface improves adhesion. | I have heard that adding a few pieces of masking tape to the print surface improves adhesion. |
3D print a paint roller I was thinking about this question and thought of maybe printing a pattern-drawing roller painter.
The question is: is it possible to print with an ink absorbing material that could make a paint roller possible?
P.S: I don't own a 3D printer, nor have I any deep knowledge in this matter. I simpl... | While printing a roller stamp or rubber-roll from a flexible material such as [hard]TPU, [softer] TPE, or even a [super soft] foaming flexible filament is certainly possible. In any case, this would create soft, somewhat squishy prints. These prints will work quite easily as a stamp or woodblock printing stock, transfe... | I'm relatively new to 3D printing, but I know some stuff. If you really wanted to print a paint roller with a pattern, I would actually go with nylon or TPR. TPE is okay, but I find that it is less cushy. I would highly suggest buying your own printer for this project. It would be much more cost effective in not only t... |
Issue on 2 corners but not the other 2 I am printing using an Ender3 Pro with eSUN PLA+ 215/45 and I am getting this issue on two corners, the other two corners look fine.
Any idea on what can be causing this?
The bad corners
The good corners | This has nothing to do with speed, temperature, adhesion, and whatever you do, DO NOT extrude more material per line (increase flow rate), as this will make the problem that much worse.
This is a fairly simple problem with an even simpler fix: you're over extruding. Reduce your flow rate by 5%, and see if that fixe... | Looks like it treated those corners a bit differently in the slice routine. Normally something like this different treatment would be too slight to matter, but (probably due to the slight overhang?) it appears to have caused some layers to not adhere to the bottom ones and get pulled along to a different shape (red li... |
Is there a spiral lid mechanism I want to put a spiral lid on top of a container. When the lid opens, then the spiral mechanism will rotate into the container. Is there a name for this mechanism? If not, would something like this be possible? | It sounds like you're talking about an iris diaphragm. This has many parts that slide against each other, and would best be printed as separate parts, then assembled. | No spiral lids that I know of. I'm not sure how they would work, anyway. There are plenty of designs with hemispherical lids -- so-called "Venus" boxes. Check Yeggi:
Yeggi : Venus box |
Simulation tool software for 4D Printing In 4D printing technology or by means usage of Shape-memory alloy (non-metal, iron based, copper based or NiTi material) for 3D printing.
Is there any software simulation tool which I can use to simulate this material change behavior with respect to time? For example, when intr... | I am going to say that this probably is a whole dimension out of scope for this group ;-)
That said this new type of 3d printing is still at the University level. Also 4d is not necessarily 3d printing related at all. All it has to be is self assembling. Like http://www.selfassemblylab.net/4DPrinting.php
Unless you hav... | (preface : I originally intent to write this as a comment, but the volume limit reached. In that tone, I'll utilize this answer space writing it..)
to simulate those material change behavior in respect to time?
COMSOL, ANSYS or equivalent ring a bell to be.. as long as you have the material properties (young's mo... |
Is a slower outer perimeter speed still meaningful? In the past we had printers with poor mechanics and with primitive software algorithms, therefore we used to print inner perimeters faster than the outermost one. See for example (generic, found online):
However now we have pressure/linear advance which reduces extra... | Lowering speed on outer perimeter has always been mostly wrong, but possibly useful. Usually, it's a poor approximation for what you really want to do, which is lowering acceleration on the outer perimeter, to avoid surface quality and dimensional accuracy errors due to ringing and backlash. However, on bowden printers... | Thanks to Input Shaper, you can print faster, sometimes to the point of reaching your speed limit on the max nozzle flow speed. At that point, if all speeds are hitting that threshold without any changes in quality, you could print every part at the same maximum speed. |
Printer thermistors read completely wrong after changing firmware I recently installed Marlin 1.1.9.1 onto my Creality CR-10S. After doing so, the temperatures for both the bed and hotend now read -14 °C. I have changed the setting in the Marlin configurations.h to several different thermistors, and it either reads 0 o... | Okay, to anyone who is looking at this post, I am an idiot. I have spent the last 4 or more hours sifting through youtube videos and forum posts to figure out this problem. I have reinstalled firmware modifications dozens of times. All of this, to just now discover that I never had the bed or hotend cables connected. T... | If all cabling is correct, you have most likely chosen the wrong thermosensor type. You need to put the correct temperature table for your thermosensor into your Firmware. As explained here, you need to set the number at the end of these lines to match what you have installed. The "standard" CR-10 should use ... |
Cura 2.4 missing "split object into parts" I have an stl with multiple parts that I want to split up. Cura 15 had an option to "split object into parts" but I can't find that in cura 2.4. Did it get removed? | I don't think this feature was implemented at all with Cura v2.x.
As the developers say on the v2.1 release, "Cura has been completely reengineered".
Finding proper changelog documentation appears to be pretty hard because they have not posted any actual changelogs except the "user friendly viewable" changelogs whi... | You can split STL files in Cura 2.4
Just open your STL file in Cura and right click it.
Select "Split object into parts" |
I can not really connect successfully to my printer via USB I have a Tronxy P802M (very similar to the Anet A8, but using a Melzi2.0V5 board) that seems to work fine (I just finished building, and axes movement and the integrated display work) but when I try to connect to the printer from my Simplify3D on Windows 10, I... | The Simplify3D support site mentions to disable the "wait for startup command" option in the firmware configuration for S3D.
This allows me to make a rudimentary connection to control the printer, however e.g. during the bed levelling wizard of S3D, the connection still breaks off.
It works reliably with Octoprint. I... | Try changing your port in the control menu. By default, mine is set to COM 1 and I have to change it to COM 3. |
What causes this "stringing" and can my print recover from this? Here's what it looks like
This is the model
thingiverse linky
It looks like it couldn't print the edge, but this happened many many hours after printing the brim.
This did not happen with my 1st attempt at this print. The last print lost adhesion and ... | No, your problem is not related to slicing, this is a hardware problem. Your complete print has shifted, this is called layer shift.
This could happen when the nozzle hits an obstruction while printing while the Y stepper continues. This could lead to skipping teeth on the belts, slipping of the pulley or missing ste... | There are many problems caused with this. It could be a faulty motors, an unlevel bed, a dirty nozzle, or even something as simple as using the wrong filament settings. It would be best to go through a checklist of things that might be wrong with your printer. It could also just be caused by the wear and tear of a rea... |
Can't connect Cura to my Anet A8 on OSX 10.11.6 I finished the mount of my Anet A8, tested everything and apparently it was ok. I installed the driver that came with it, CH341SER_MAC, turned on the printer, connect USB cable, but nothing happened.
In Cura, I tried to add a printer many times and this message always a... | There are a lot of problems with the CH340 chipset drivers to be found on 3D SE and various forums on the internet. To use this cheap CH340 chip that is used by a number of Arduino compatible (clone) boards to provide USB connectivity (a USB bus converter chip that converts USB bus signals to serial interface) you need... | What Cura version do you have?
Cura only works with the Anet A8 via USB on versions 2.3 and lower according to this page. The page is from thingiverse(A 3d printing forum + print files page) |
Why is Print Adhesion almost good, but still not right? It feels like my print is almost there, I spent a long time fine tuning the calibration with a fantastic set of G-code files from Chuck Hellebuyck.
I am using an Ender 3, on which I have modified the heatbed to carry a glass sheet, otherwise factory standard. The... | Based on the pictures, this looks like the bed wasn't clean enough, thus why it didn't adhere correctly in some spots. The lifted corner is the worst, but I can see a couple more spots where the PLA didn't stick well enough, though the brim prevented it to completely lift off the bed.
I would advise you to not print w... | I work with a glass surface on my machine and use a drop of superglue to attach the
corners after the first layer is complete. The biggest contributors to not sticking are :
Bed not level.
Temperature of filament not hot enough.
First layer print speed is too fast.
Heated Bed not hot enough to compensate for cold ro... |
Whats the difference between a basic rapid prototyping machine and a 3D printer? In general 3D printers are compact and smaller than RP machines. That's ok. But, what's the difference? 3D printers can be used as RP machine too. | All rapid prototyping means is automatically producing a physical part from a cad model. 3D printing is a way to achieve rapid prototyping. There are 2 main methods of rapid prototyping: additive, and subtractive.
A 3D printer is additive- you add materials to an object layer by layer.
Usually, when people talk about... | A sintered metal printer is a version of a 3D printer that is rapid, but expensive. Seen 1 for 800,000$aud
Uses laser to melt metal particles like titanium. |
Speeding up the heating of the heated bed Currently I am using a 12 volts, 20 amperes power supply (Model S-240-12)
The stepper motors and the extruder need 5 amp, and the heated bed build plate needs 11 amp.
Technically you only need to use a 12 Volts, 16 amperes power supply, but I understand that you use the... | Changing the PSU with one with a higher amperage will not make the bed heat up any faster unless the PSU is underrated for the amperage required and the voltage is dropping as a result of the load. This can be checked by measuring the output voltage with a multimeter (when the PSU is loaded e.g. by a heating heat bed).... | I hate to sound like the Toolman Tayler from that old TV show. "But, it comes down to More Power!"
Power is the ability to do work (move a mass certain distance) within certain amount of time.
Power = mass x distance x Time.
It can also be expressed in electrical terms, as the ability to heat something withi... |
Which software do I need to start print something? I'm still new to 3D printing and I want to print something. I expect that I'll mess it up since I find nothing to adjust it but it is now laying around for 4 months and I'm sick of it.
So my question is where do I find Windows software to print something and of course... | First; find a model!
To print something you require a model (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called Thingiverse and MyMiniFactory for examples). Once you have a model file, you need to make it readable for the printer firmware.
If you can't find suitable model, then you need to design a model yourself... | If you're just starting out then Tinkercad (website) is a good place to start designing your own objects. Later you can get to grips with OpenScad for more complex shapes. Both are free. |
XYZ calibration without PINDA probe I have been happily printing with my Original Prusa i3 MK2S for a few weeks now. I have been thinking about replacing the PINDA probe with a BLTouch tactile sensor.
If I do so, how will I be able to do the XYZ calibration? I believe that the tactile sensor would only be able to do Z... | If you want to replace the PINDA probe (whatever reason for) then you can go with the BLTouch Sensor but only for certain operations.
It will be good for leveling the bed before printing because here, only the bed level is important and not the skew of the bed.
If it comes to calibration of the skew itself, the BLT... | If you want to replace the PINDA probe (whatever reason for) then you can go with the BLTouch Sensor but only for certain operations.
It will be good for leveling the bed before printing because here, only the bed level is important and not the skew of the bed.
If it comes to calibration of the skew itself, the BLT... |
E3D V6 nozzle vs MK8 nozzle, first layer adhesion Does anyone notice that when they upgrade from an MK8Makerbot(?) to a E3D V6 hotend that when using the same settings and bed-leveling/z-distance-setting procedures, that the filament is much more likely to be pulled up and bunch up around the nozzle while printing the ... | When filament curls up this generally means that there is some sort of obstruction or burned material in the nozzle causing uneven flow. You can use the Atomic Method from this answer.
Being a new nozzle, I would expect that this is not the case, so that it should just drop out of the nozzle and not curl up. It coul... | Turns out this can be fixed by increasing the bed temp to 65-70 °C and of course increasing the extruder temp by 30 °C or so, which is standard for the all metal hotends (no idea why) |
Can model used for 3D printing be later used for mold mass production? I am working on a project that requires an enclosure that I am thinking to prototype using a 3D printer (which is pretty easy and overall awesome).
My question is simply whether this same model can be used later on for mass production (i.e. mold in... | I respectfully disagree with the hard no answer. There are many casting methods, some of which are not compatible with 3D printed parts and at least one that definitely is. See investment casting, aka lost wax casting. (Ref 1) Also search YouTube for "investment casting using 3D printing". Formlabs, the company th... | That's a hard No.
Models used in industrial injection molding are very specific to the process sometimes even the machine. When they build those molds they have to include constructs like spurs and runners; things to get the molten plastic to where it needs to go. Further the wall thickness of an injection molded part... |
What could be causing my y axis to slip? Occasionally, while printing, my y axis will slip and the layer will, from that point forward, be shifted, ruining the print.
What might be the causes of an axis slipping? I have tried cooling the motor which seemed to have been getting warm, and the belts are not too tight.
T... | (source: all3dp.com)
Your printer is skipping steps in the y-direction. This can have several causes. Take a look into Shifted layer guide on RapRap.org which lists 29 possible problems that can cause this issue and how to fix them.
First items of the list:
Driver current is too low
Driver current is too high
Belt too... | My Y axis runs on a channel and I believe there was some grit or metal flakes in the channel left over from manufacturing. The wheels in the channel got stuck on the debris and caused the belt to slip. It made a horrible grinding noise when this happened.
So I blew out the channel with pressurized air and tested all t... |
Delta Printer: Slighty incorrect print alignment on the build plate After building a Delta printer, I noticed that my whole prints are slightly tilted around the Z-axis in comparison to the slicer (e.g. Cura). There is no twist layer wise. This means, the prints themself look actually perfect.
I just don't know what ... | I figured out that the reason is probably a slightly translated slider construction. Instead of using a proper centered slider as shown in red, I used a slider construction like illustrated in yellow. When all sliders are translated on each tower like this, the print should be tilted by the same amount. This seems to h... | If I am reading this correctly, your prints are being either stretched or your prints are shifting / leaning on more complicated prints.
In this case, given that you are on a Delta printer, my answer is the same for all. I usually do Cartesian based 3d printing but the concept is the same for any drifting or leaning.... |
Can 3D printers print details in the 1/10 of the micrometer for metals? I'm starting to get familiar with 3D printers. I wish to know if printing details the size of 10-7 m (3.9*10-6 in) is possible these days with metals or any other material.
If anyone has information or articles as leads, I would really a... | You can get the 0.1 micron (100 nm) resolution with a 2-photon 3D printer, but only in a polymer resin. Nanoscribe, in Germany, pioneered this technology, see Mechanical Microstructures.
Their commercial printer, the Photonic Professional GT, is about $350,000 US with software and accessories. There is some work be... | Today, only SLA/DLP will give features of that size (if even these technologies do), and I am unaware of anyone using these technologies to print with metals today. |
ABS Filament safety concerns I have the XYZPrinting da-Vinci-1.0 with ABS filament. I am concerned about ventilation. If this is used inside, what safety precautions are necessary, which are recommended, and/or which are optional? | Yes... The issue with all 3d printing materials. Not just ABS, but worse with ABS is the fine air particulate and Ultra fine it creates during the 3d printing process. PLA is considered safer than ABS. But I fear people will use this as justification, it is like saying I only smoke one cig a day instead of two so I am ... | your fine at practical temperatures.
source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene#Hazard_for_humans
recommended would probably be set your controller to not go above 380c if your really worried. but it's not needed. |
When to use 1.75 mm vs 3 mm filament? Why do we have two standard filament sizes, 1.75 mm and 3 mm? Does it really make a difference when printing? Or is the 1.75 mm just for smaller printers?
In what situations should I be using 1.75 mm?
When should I be using 3 mm? | There's no appreciable difference. Just use the filament that fits your particular printer.
If you don't yet have a printer, then I'd get one that uses 1.75 mm filament:
1.75 mm is increasingly becoming the "standard", thus being easier to get. Some filaments are not available as 3 mm.
1.75 mm fi... | I agree with all the answers above but only would like to add if you want to build a very large printer using 0.8 mm or 1.2 mm nozzle, i would advice to go 3 mm. 1.75 mm filament then just can't be fed in fast enough. |
Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near future and I have a spare power ... | Short answer YES. You can run it from a different power supply at a higher voltage. Also it has a PC817 Optical isolator (for some reason) therefore the second power supply and your main board should not be electrically connected at all. | For reference,I done tracing this module as shown.
So you can use isolated power supply for load.
Also you can use up to 24V without any problem.
Edit:
This module still work with higher voltage up to 24V. But according to question. Using higher voltage supply more than rated is same as my question here.
For summary.... |
Changing the home position on a Prusa i3 MK2 As part of a project with my university, I have developed a new extruder to attach to a Prusa i3 MK2. My problem is that both the nozzle and PINDA probe have moved 17mm forward and 0.5mm to the right. As a result when I try and calibrate the printer it moves to the home posi... | Consider the original installation with the orientation of the Pinda probe to the nozzle. Let's say for argument's sake that the Pinda probe is 3 mm to the right and directly in line with the nozzle on the y axis.
If you examine your new nozzle, I would expect that the relationship of the nozzle to the Pinda probe no l... | What is the simplest method of moving the home position...
I think the solution outline by @fred_dot_u is very elegant, so I would go with it.
...so that the printer can be properly calibrated?
I'm not sure that will be possible.
Because the physical lenght of the axis hasn't changed, by moving the nozzle/prob... |
Best material for compression? I'm designing a mount for a cylindrical speaker to attach to my bicycle. It will mount on the bottle cages. I've printed a few iterations with various infill settings (using PLA) and the weak point is always the bolts holding the entire mount to the bike. They can't handle the compression... | Infill has minimal effect on the strength of printed parts, so I would expect the part to break in the same spot regardless of what infill percentage you used.
PLA is especially poor in this exact application, and it undergoes significant creep/cold flow under mechanical compression over time, so even if achieved the... | Try heating op your PLA while mounting it. The PLA wil temporarily weaken and will become a bit moldable. PETG is a bit more brittle than PLA is my experience so I'd say stick to PLA. Otherwise you might try Arnitel ECO. I can try to find an amazon purchase link for you if you want. Anyway, it is more rubber like and s... |
Out-gassing of printed material when heated We know from this answer, 3d printed materials continue to outgas after printing and being cured. My question relates to this:
How much does heating the printed object after printing (or being cured) affect out-gassing?
Does the continued out-gassing degrade the stability/... | This is not an answer to your question, but it relates to outgassing so I am sharing it here.
I have used the acetone vapor method of smoothing the surface of ABS prints. It works really well, and the surface becomes much smoother and glassy. I printed a large coffee mug (lets, for the moment, ignore food safety i... | The effect of temperature on outgas rates is a subject for Engineering.SE . As to continued outgassing - depends on the material in question. To pick an extreme example, solid CO2 (dry ice) will outgas until it's gone. But stuff that's got VOCs is expected to outgas; said volatiles leave by design and the remaining m... |
What is the melting temperature of a 3D printed part? Here is the context
I've got an old car for which I have a small plastic piece who is broken. As it's an old car and a very specific piece, I can't find it anymore. So I was thinking about 3D printing it.
My problem is this piece is on the carburetor, so close to t... | The number you're looking for is the glass transition temperature (the lowest temperature at which the material can flow or warp), not the melting point. This depends on what material you're using; approximate temperatures for common printable materials are:
PLA: 60˚C
PETG, high-temperature PLA: 95 ˚C
ABS: 105˚C
Nyl... | Nylon is probably your best bet.
It is resistant to some chemicals as well.
Figure on printing it at around 250 °C.
It might do the job. |
Are large format prints more brittle? Recently on one of her videos a YouTuber stated that prints from large format printers are more brittle than if you were to print them in parts and glue them together. This seems to contradict the testimonials from the customers of a large format printer, who say that they get good... | If you break up a large piece into multiple smaller pieces and properly glue them together, you basically add stiffeners (as a result of printing walls). This could lead to a more stiff model; this might have been confused by calling large prints more brittle opposed to constructed models.
If printing is conducted at ... | I'd recommend getting the object to fit together by design, rather than glue - though I tend (if the item is never to be disassembled) use Zap-a-gap - that stuff sticks like crazy though you must not squeeze the parts together but let it naturally sit. |
Looking for information on modifying Boots Industries 3D printers About two years ago I purchased a Boots Industries v.2.5 3D printer in a delta configuration. The wiki is still up at this location where you can see what the printer looked like.
The printer is prone to break and slip because the design uses thin wire... | Contact Brian or Lykle. We all have Boots Industries printers and have heavily modified it to belt drive and magnetic effectors. The print quality has improved drastically. The old Boots support group has since moved on to Slack and we are in constant contact everyday.
https://biv25.slack.com/messages/@slackbot/
h... | Contact Brian or Lykle. We all have Boots Industries printers and have heavily modified it to belt drive and magnetic effectors. The print quality has improved drastically. The old Boots support group has since moved on to Slack and we are in constant contact everyday.
https://biv25.slack.com/messages/@slackbot/
h... |
Best method to make dissolvable supports? Sometimes supports are very difficult to remove (physically) when I print with ABS. The image below, from Thingiverse - MOF-5 unit cell, is after significant effort to remove the yellow ABS supports from a black ABS model.
I've learned about polyvinylalcohol (PVA) as a 3D-pr... | I've had great success printing with HIPS (high-impact polystyrene) as a support for both PLA and ABS. Most sites recommend it for use with ABS because the materials melt at similar temperatures and work best with heated beds, but I've had good luck using it as a support material with PLA on a bed at 60°C. It doesn't s... | While I haven't used PVA yet, think of it this way, it may be 4x the cost but you use significantly less material for support structures even if you have a lot of support. |
How does this multiple-curve-beam flexural pivot work? I found this in Handbook of Compliant Mechanisms (2013), page 162, or at the start of "Chapter 11, Elements of Mechanisms," subsection 11.1.2 Revolute
I don't understand how it's supposed to go from 1 to 2 when b rotates around c.
The description reads:
... | The picture looks as if there is a printed back surface to which the central part is attached. This can not be the case, since otherwise the curved members would not be able to flex. Everything inside the outer ring must be detached from the back shell.
Like all couplers, especially flexible couplers, there is a limi... | I would try and print it in PLA because it is quite flexible.
ABS is harder in my experience and breaks more easily.
If you are able to print PET, you should also try that for the same reasons.
There might also be better materials I've never heard of, also please leave a comment if I'm wrong with anything. |
What are the tradeoffs of a cantilever printer design? There are several cantilever-style printers around like some DIYs (2018), the TronXY-X1, the Monoprice Select Mini, Tiertime's Cetus line and the 2019 Prusa Minilinks for information, no affiliation.
While the specs of the printers are very different, what are the... | Cantilever printers constrain the X-axis carriage only on one side and have a free hanging side. This means, that the X-beam has to be rather sturdy and is limited in length, making them usually quite small machines.
Another tradeoff stemming from this source is, that they have to stiffen this one connection as much ... | The point of the cantilever design is for reduced cost. There are no other benefits beyond that. |
Filament isn't going into the Bowden tube, instead it goes "into the room" The pictures explain my problem. I have already tried to reduce the retraction but that showed no effect. Thank you for your help.
The effect is a total stop of the print (no material is extruded).
Creality CR 10
Cura 3.4.1
I recently adde... | This is typically caused by resistance in the tube or hotend but in your case it appears to be mostly caused by a very poorly designed extruder. The filament needs to be constrained closer to the drive gear. You may be able to drill out the PTC connector to allow the PTFE tube to reach closer to the gears or print a ... | You just have to cut the filament at a 45° angle. Then push down the extruder and push the filament in. Then heat up the nozzle. Next, hand feed the filament until the filament starts oozing out. |
Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer? I've heard that using hairspray is useful for keeping the 3D objects from peeling off of the bed, but every example I have seen where someone uses hairspray, they use it on a glass bed.
Is it okay to use it on a metal bed as well? | I have been using a sort of a very strong hairspray called 3DLAC for about 2 years directly onto the aluminium heat bed of the Anet A8 printer I have.
Basically, all those sprays contain copolymer constituents, PVA (PolyVinyl Alcohol), Vinyl or Acetate. These are also found in certain glue sticks or wood glues. For ... | Do you mean bare metal or metal with some film on top? You can apply hair spray to bare metal, but you will have troubles cleaning it off. Solvents do not evaporate hair spray, they only turn it into thick sticky goo you will need to clean off. I recommend that you try glue stick or even beer (seriously) before hair sp... |
Is there any way to shrink 3 mm filaments down to 2.85 mm? Some 3 mm filaments seem to actually be 3 mm - is there any way to shave off the excess and use it as 2.85 mm? | I would not recommend you to try and somehow re-size the filament, since even the smallest of irregularities and error in diameter occurring from such a process would ruin your prints with sporadic over and under extrusion. Rather, if you have the tools available, you could grind the filament into pellets, and use a fi... | you could put a 3 mm extruder on you're printer. or (if you're r brave) put route filament in the oven for 10 minutes and unroll it than stretch it out. if you do this outside you can attach one ent to a stride licht or something an pul on the other end, if it is hot anoth it should hold its new position. but don't get... |
Why all the excitement about linear rails? Whenever a 3D printer that uses linear rails is announced (case in point: the cetus), the Internet (well... at least that corner of it dealing with 3D printing) gets abuzz with excitement.
I researched a bit the topic myself, and while I understand that linear rails can be pr... | The following is a compilation of the input from a number of sources.
Linear rails in general are mechanical components that - when designing equipment - offer great flexibility.
The profile of the rail can be designed in nearly infinite ways. This in turn allows for:
Different levels of stiffness in different dire... | Linear rails will always produce a high degree of accuracy and stability and more so than round rod with PTFE bushings and/or bearings.
One may argue the fact however even as a product developer and one who is involved with the mechanicals and development of machinery on a day to day basis comparing the two we see “s... |
Connecting Anet A8 to PC issue I am still at calibration stage and need some info from the PCB. I connected the USB and ran Repetier. The PCB wants to talk at a higher baud rate than my serial port says it can do. I tried setting the serial port to its highest setting 125k and reduced the PCB baud in Repetier setting t... | Sorted. Repetier Server was hijacking my com port. Uninstalled it and Repetier host worked fine. As I have no desire to monitor or control prints remotely I have no use for the server software.
Hope that helps others. | My A8 just started doing this.
I shut down repetier server, and voila, all is good! Since I will go do OctoPi eventually, I just uninstalled RS. |
3D prints keep suffering from warping I have a Prusa i3 made by Geeetech. My 3D prints keep suffering from warping when printing with PLA.
Whenever I print something with a base at about 10 cm x 10 cm, at least one corner of the print would warp up. I've read numerous articles about warping and tried all sorts of meth... | For ABS it will warp unless you build a heat chamber.
That said the tricks to reduce warping come down to:
Material, i.e. PLA is less likely to warp;
Use a fan, it helps so much;
Make sure you have temps calibrated well - Too hot is more warp;
Use a raft. The Makerbot uses a raft and no heated bed;
Make sure t... | Source (at least in part):
SolidWorks 2015 Tutorial with Video Instruction, page 11-6, and;
12 ways to fight warping and curling, June 23, 2011 by MakerBlock
Curling
As printed plastic parts cool the different areas of the object can
cool at different rates. 1 Depending upon the parts being printed,
t... |
Danger in 3D printing over a lithium ion battery So I bought a Lulzbot Mini a couple months ago and finally downloaded Ultimaker's version of Cura... Boy... have I been missing out...
One feature Ultimaker Cura implemented that I've been looking for is a "pause at z-height" feature ("post-processing tool"). I'm buildi... | I would have to see your design to comment more but why not just change your model with the lid or top that can be either fused on later or attached in some other fashion?
It is possible to turn off the heated bed after a certain layer. It looks like there is a discussion here with the G-code: Can Cura Turn Off a Hea... | Discharge the battery entirely, then there is no danger of ignition if the membrane breaks. The battery cells are usually protected by Kapton tape (LiPo) or maybe even metal (LiIon). Both will withstand the temperature of 240°C. The downside is that the cells are damaged after a deep discharge. You should discard the b... |
Are there any "best" or at least "common" practices to handle allowances in OpenSCAD code? I'm designing a few mechanisms with OpenSCAD, and one of the parameters that need adjustment between printers/filaments is allowances between pieces that need to be assembled together (for example, if I want a "5 mm diameter... | It helps to understand the different aspects of dimensions, so you can use the terminology correctly. This will help you define your variables in OpenSCAD with correct names. (Tolerance is the wrong term to use.) And once you have correct names, you'll understand how to specify the dimensions in OpenSCAD.
Toleranc... | Well, the tolerances will depend on material to be used for fabrication of the required part and also where the part will go and fit. Remember the all parts need some clearance to fit properly.
Few years ago (10 years) I was working as Quality Engineer and some Design Engineers were complaining about a Dupont pin was ... |
How to automate printing of multiple parts continuously? I would like to print multiple parts continuously (non-interactively), so
I can leave the printer alone for a longer time. So after finish, parts could be moved somehow out from the printing area, so the next can start.
Are there any methods of achieving that wi... | The only thing I can think of off hand is an old mod for the early MakerBot machines. It first was released for the Thing-O'-Matic I believe, but is compatible with Replicator 1 machines (and its knock-offs). Here's the Thingiverse page, but look up Automatic Build Plate.
Essentially, you can use the Replicator G slic... | I Don't really think that it is possible without hardware modifications, or maybe some small parts that will fit in the bed of the printer all on the same time |
Filament extrusion always stops at some point during print I own a Creality CR-10 (using Ultimaker Cura for slicing) and I am experiencing terrible printing problems.
My problem: I am not able to print anything that takes several hours to print. For parts printed in 30 minutes or so, my printer usually works.
The pr... | Stringing?
The stringing is explained by your relatively low retraction settings, 1.5 mm is not much for a Bowden setup. As do too high printing temperatures.
Stopping mid printing?
What you are experiencing is called clogging, the extruder cannot push the filament through the hotend and cause the grinding you ... | I had the same thing! On my anycubic I3 mega.
Tried a lot of stuff and got so sick of it so I installed a 10:1 gearbox on my extruder motor. So now it provides 10x more torque and since I havent got the issue anymore where the extruder is just grinding on the filament and the motor is just skipping steps.
No because... |
How to convert png to stl? Is it possible to convert an image image to STL file format?
E.g. I don't need the coloring, I need the lines. | I suggest your objective can best be accomplished by converting the image to a single color vector file. You can do this with Inkscape (free, Linux, Windows, Mac) by combining the built-in bitmap tracing feature with some manual editing. I attempted to do so, but the coarseness of the image would result in excessive ma... | For things like a coat of arms, you do not require a full 3D conversion, essentially all you need is a lithograph-like effect. The best program I've found for such conversions is 3D Builder which is a free Microsoft download for windows users (yes, I was surprised too). It can use either color or degrees of greyscale s... |
Centering model with CuraEngine when creating g-code? How can I center a model at the middle of the printing area of the printer when creating a g-code with CuraEngine.
Are there any parameters I can add to ultimaker2.def.json to achieve this?
Thanks. | Found a solution.
This need to be applied under "settings"
"command_line_settings": {
"label": "Command Line Settings",
"description": "Settings which are only used if CuraEngine isn't called from the Cura frontend.",
"type": "category",
"enabled": true,
"children": {
"center_object": {
... | If this is over the commandline tool "CuraEngine", then you will have to read the sourcecode. According to the Author, 'Nope. Only documentation there is in the code, readme and my head.' (cringe!).
If you're talking of the GUI program, then right click and click "Center". But this requires GUI usage. Not so nice if y... |
How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal? Should it be possible to directly send G-code to the printer serial connection using pipes under Linux?
Example:
echo M106 > /dev/ttyUSB0
My controller runs at 250000 baud, I have tried setting the TTY baud rate to 250 kBd with:
stty -F /dev/ttyUSB0... | For direct low-level printer control from a terminal, without specific software, I found the following solution with full credit thanks to user: http://stackexchange.com/users/6463673/meuh
Sharing here as may be of use to other users in the 3d Printing community, and I was unable to source a "complete" solution to thi... | That's work solution:
you need 2 terminal, one for in and another for out flows |
What is stopping us from mixing 3D filament colors in an Extruder? This came up in one of my groups today. That we could not color bend, or mix 3d printing filaments. I have researched but I am not finding anything talking about Plastic mixing in an extruder.
Why is it that we cannot take say a Diamond hotend, or a ho... | I just started with google and phrase "3d printing color mixing" and on the first place (in fact first two were valueless adverts) I got this Instructables - DIY Full Color Mixing 3D Printer.
How it works?
It uses magenta / cyan / yellow filaments and mixes it while printing with Diamond hotend.
It definitely does w... | If you clearly observe the geometry of the print it has printed in different colours .the part is designed in such a way that it has the small height gap between the each colour but we cannot seen this gap in one projection plane..
We can print only in direct drive extrusion .by changing the filament of different colou... |
High temperature flexible filament I need to cool some liquid (250 °C) while it’s flowing through a tube which has to be able to bend and flex.
My idea is to make a flexible tube with a second tube spiraling around it through which coolant will flow.
I’d like to 3D print this tube if possible so I wonder if there... | Ok, so to answer the primary question: What flexible filament will operate consistently at 250°C?
Man... this is a tough one. Some filaments, like PEEK and ULTEM 1010 can operate up in the 200c range.... but they're not flexible at all.
Silicon might be able to work, but you're still pushing boundaries.
Now.... I'm luc... | 3D printing nerd showed a couple of filaments that fits this in his latest video "Printers at RAPID + TCT 2019":
Firstly a Nylon 6 high temperature filament:
Another part of the video shows another flexible print, created on a four axis 3D printer, using TPU filament: |
Managing LEDs with NanoDLP I'm building my own DLP printer with UV LEDs. I use a 20A relay to power them on, since they require high power and can't be directly driven by arduino or Raspberry.
I'm planning to use them with NanoDLP on Raspberry + GRBL on Arduino.
Is it possible to make NanoDLP tell GRBL to power on (s... | I have no experience with either GRBL or DLP printers, but the
M7
M8
M9
coolant control codes should be able to be sent by NanoDLP to GRBL. Those seem to allow for direct digital output.
Apparently you can set the pin you want them to use in the cpu_map.h file, with the standard being Analog Pins 3 and 4 for the M8 ... | I think you don't have to use the Arduino. There´s an option in NanoDLP to control the z-axis through the Raspberry GPIO. |
Creating positives for a food-safe silicone mold: safe? First, a little background. A couple of years ago, I was researching making my own candy, and I came across this page: Lego brick shaped gummy candies, describing how to use real Lego bricks as a positive to make silicone molds for Lego brick shaped candy. Now tha... | In principle, ABS is safe for contact with (cold or room-temperature) food. The two main concerns specific to 3D printing are, assuming you start with a filament that is not itself contaminated:
Pores and holes in the printed part which may harbor bacteria
Impurities introduced into the plastic during the printing pr... | The plastic is not quite your main concern (though it still can be). You should worry about the cracks and crevices in FDM prints. Bacteria loves to hide there. For most people, this is the first concern when it comes to "Is X 3D printed food-safe?" If the end product is a hard material, you should sand or smooth your ... |
First layer eventually sticks to the hotend and tears I am at my wits end with this problem. I start a print and the skirt goes down fine, then the outline of the parts go down fine (usually) and then when it goes to fill in the first layer, it will always get stuck to the hotend at some point and rip apart the layer. ... | Step Zero: is always to check/adjust the bed level - if the height over the bed varies while putting down the first layer, it's hard to ever get first layer settings that work.
Step One: is to adjust your first layer settings - height, temperature, extrusion width until you find a set that work for your setup (knowing... | Try lowering your first layer temp to 205°C, and apply a gluestick to the bed before you print anything. By lowering the temp, this allows th plastic to cool faster, and doesn't risk the plastic sticking to the nozzle as much. Applying the glue stick will help the print to stick to the buildplate better, lowering the r... |
What can I do about a printjob in progress that starts to warp/curl on the edges? I currently have a print job that is about 50% done, been running for 2 hours with 2 hours remaining. One side is curling/warping pretty bad, and I'm afraid there's no possible way this is going to finish without serious problems if I do... | Putting a large brim on it can help, I've seen people rescue prints with larger brims by literally adding weights to the brim around the areas that are peeling up. I've done it by taping brim edges down carefully as the print goes. | More glue to hold it down and lower in-fill percentage will reduce the warping. Or adding more cut-outs to the design like you have further up the shaft. |
What defines the speed at which a motor is retracting and how can it be changed? Given a Marlin firmware and a line of G-code such as the following:
G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10
What defines the speed at which the stepper motor associated with the E-value is retracting? It is my understanding that the Feed Rate define... | You instruct the printer to move from a certain X-Y position instructed by the previous move, to X=50 and Y=50. While moving at a feedrate of 100 mm/min, it will also retract 10 mm of filament (if the previous extruder distance was 0) during that move. If the movement distance is large, the retraction is slow. If you s... | It seems like you are particularly talking about your extruder, please correct me if I have misread.
In the command G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10:
G1 - move linearly
F100 - Use a feed rate of 100 mm/minute
X50 Y50 Z0 - tells those axes to move to (50, 50, 0) (absolute positioning)
E-10 - tells the extruder to retract 10mm... |
How can I determine whether my borosilicate glass is fake or not? Is there actually a way to determine whether the sheet of glass that one has received from a Chinese supplier on eBay is actually a sheet of Borosilicate glass, and not just a piece of normal glass intended for glazing purposes?
Are there any lamination... | Google turned up this thread: http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=96214
There don't seem to be any easy, definitive tests. You have two main options, both of which seem to require a fairly high level of laboratory skill (but nothing fancy in terms of equipment).
The refractive index of Borosilicate glass is ... | "toughened" glass,
Lead, cadmium and barium would have that effect. It goes without saying that you wouldn't want that kind of glass anywhere near your neighborhood.
Even those items that mention borosilicate glass in the product description may have never seen any boron.
Some studies have found that more than 90... |
What stepper motor to use in heated chamber I want to build a 3D printer with a heating chamber of around 90 °C with build area 200x200x200 mm. I have never build a CoreXY system, so my design is currently an XY system with moving X motor (mounted on Y). Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal s... | "Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor" Sure you can, the interior doesn't get all that warm unless you really seal it up tight, and that's not really needed. I have an enclosure around my 200x200x200 mm MIGBOT (early Prusa clone with direct drive extruder), printing PLA with 60 &d... | You don't need to worry about the stepper for heating chamber since the direct drive uses a fan for cooling the motor area.
When I started to make my own printer I had the same question but in order to make me feel good and peace. I prefer to use a bowder extruder.
This bowden extruder comes in different sizes: N... |
Bad PEI plate adhesion to heated bed I'm (surprisingly) having a problem getting my PEI substrate to stick to the heated bed surface. The ABS item being printed stuck great to the PEI surface. I've not seen anyone else post on this problem, but perhaps someone has seen it.
Note, this is the PRINT SURFACE warping, no... | Perhaps this is due to the aluminum build plate warping/crowning as it heats? I use a PEI print surface on my Monoprice Maker Select (Wanhao Di3), which has an 8.5"x8.5" build plate, and I've had no issues with the PEI coming unstuck. However, instead of attaching mine directly to the aluminum heated build plate, I a... | I never used one, but the thing that makes two parts stick together is the atmospheric pressure. The glue is just a thing that, even if it does not make any chemical bond, is keeping the air out. A pure example of that is if you put water in a glass and then put another one on it. Although the water is not glue you can... |
My Hatchbox PLA filament only allows me to use rafts When I first got my 3D printer (a FlashForge Adventurer 3), it came with a sample pack of filament. With this filament, I was able to use skirts for my first layer. When the sample filament ran out, I switched to Hatchbox PLA filament. For some reason, I cannot use s... | It is unlikely this is a filament material issue since many of us have used Hatchbox PLA without this issue. This is a first layer adhesion issue.
Your bed may not be clean, or the bed may have had an adhesion layer you cleaned off.
Your nozzle may be too high on the first layer.
Your bed my not be level.
Glue sti... | Please try one (or more) of the following:
Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C)
Check your nozzle height (0.15 - 0.25 mm is what I use)
Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))
Use adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy... |
How to switch motor outputs and use E1 as X, in Marlin firmware? I broke up my electronics and now the output for X is not working. The stepper is OK.
There is any simple solution to remap the output pins? I want the E1 output to act as the X output. | When using Marlin firmware you could easily change the pin layout of the extra extruder (E1) with the broken X stepper pins by changing the pins_RAMPS.h file.
Download the firmware and open the firmware project in Arduino IDE. Navigate to the "Steppers" section of the pins_RAMPS.h file and replace:
#define X_STEP_PIN... | you can find pin.h in marlin directory and in pin.h file change # define pinout of z motor and extruder motor |
RF100 Settings after reinstalling firmware I have an RF100 v.1 printer with stock software (again) onboard.
After my attempt of changing firmware, the X-axis motor decided to stray printhead away out of the borders of the printer and somehow motor wires broke out of the adapter.
I fixed the wires and reverted to stoc... | Everything was fixed by thorough googling and flipping the whole wire-set of the motor. It started to twirl in a right direction.
Sorry for the time | Everything was fixed by thorough googling and flipping the whole wire-set of the motor. It started to twirl in a right direction.
Sorry for the time |
Heated Bed vs Heated enclosure for large scale printer I'm /relatively/ new to 3d printing (I'm getting pretty good prints from my Wanhao di3 plus, but haven't done any DIY kits or anything) and materials engineering is probably the furthest thing from my area of expertise so I thought I would pose this to more experie... | I tend to agree with Davo, that you might want both. But I'd probably try the enclosure first. My printer is about 1200 by 400. I looked at options, and found some difficult trade-offs:
First, the big heatbed approach:
as you know, getting a single heatbed that big will be expensive (and if it ever breaks or fails,... | If it is yours first DIY 3D printer try building smaller version first with just one silicone heat pad. 400^2 mm^2 is good enough.
From my experience:
I used 500W silicon heater with SSR (AC mains) and it heats as fast as hotend (on DC 12V).
I also recommend tooling plate (CNC machined Aluminum plate), it is better ... |
How to prevent bend (or warping) with M3D printer? Hello is there a way to prevent bend on print with M3D printer? | You can to print a brim, a thin layer on the bottom connected to the model. This will help hold it in place. Since it is thin (one or two layers) it will not warp itself.
The brim is not the same thing as a raft. A raft is under the model. The brim is on the same layer as the models bottom layer but outside the model.... | Try using an adhesive before you print. This could be http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping ... What is the temperature of the room you are printing in like? |
Nozzle moves very slowly from home to start position I´m currently working on a custom delta printer running Marlin 1.0.2 firmware. To control it I´m using the Repetier Host software with the onboard Cura software to slice my objects. The printing works fine but it takes the nozzle nearly 5 minutes to move from the hom... | I had the same problem, and I solved it by changing the Z-Axis Feed Rate to a much higher value (1000 mm/min.) in Repetier Host via Config -> Printer Settings -> Printer. | Try changing the travel speed in you r slicer, if that doesn't work , try changing out the motors for newer ones. |
How to debond cyanoacrylate glue from pla I have used cyanoacrylate glue aka superglue to bond PLA. I have created several electronics enclosures. (Definitely the most time-consuming part of the project.)
Now my question is which debonder/solvent can I use to separate the pieces again without destroying the PLA parts?... | Acetone
Acetone will dissolve cynoacrylate (superglue) and should weaken it enough to be able to separate the parts.
A readily available cheap source of acetone is nail varnish remover (just make sure you don't buy the acetone free version!).
Give the pieces a soak in nail varnish remover for 10-20 minutes and they sh... | Gamma butyrolactone is by far the best product to remove cyanoacrylate and also great to dissolve PLA. |
Are the Makerbot 5th generation's initial issues resolved I am considering buying a 3D printer for work (scientific research). On paper, the Makerbot 5th generation seems to be the best option, because the price is right for my budget, and also because I'm generally pretty busy, so I want something that's as close to "... | Makerbot claims the problems are fixed. I have heard from a number of resellers that the problems are fixed. Unfortunately, both of those are somewhat biased sources. It's surprisingly hard to get good info on the subject -- very few credible people are talking about recent experiences with the product line.
Issue #1... | I own a 5th gen printer and after teaching myself how to dismantle and clear the smart extruder of jammed filament I can attest to the machine working better than any other 3D printer I have used. I run the 3D printing section at Tampa Hakerspace and the MakerBot is much more reliable than the prusa or wanhao which we ... |
Under extrusion when starting outer wall See the pictures below. I have a severe under extrusion when the printer starts the outer wall, which is resolved by the time it finishes the outer wall. It starts the layer in the same place every time, so it results in this vertical line, on one side of which is fine (where it... | Based on other comments, answers, and question edits so far, in addition to your original question, I believe there are possibly two things going on here: incorrect retraction settings, including a misunderstanding of which settings are relevant and what they do, and issues related to slow acceleration. Both relate to ... | try retract before outer wall off. |
FlashForge Finder turns off mid print and is unable to reset or update firmware I am new to 3D printing and am trying to get started with a FlashForge Finder. Unfortunately, the printer keeps shutting off mid print, and I am unable to find a cause. Here's what I have tried thus far:
System Settings
Factory Reset - W... | Same problem occurred to me, now twice.
How much is the Finder's memory able/allowed to register?
After erasing all but the print job, things go smooth. | Try unplugging the USB lead as soon as the printer starts to print (I had similar issue and this worked for me). |
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