title_body stringlengths 83 4.07k | upvoted_answer stringlengths 32 13.1k |
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Under extrusion towards the end of the print I have really strange problem. Thing is that my print (first layer) started ok, not good nor perfect but ok and everything was going well but then all of a sudden, near the end of a print, quality drops drastically. I'm not really sure but I think this happened because of un... | Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this?
At least judging from the pictures, that does seem like under-extrusion. Some ideas for further investigating the issue.
The problem may be due to the gcode being wrong. In this case, your printer is merely executing correctly... the wrong commands. ... |
Issues with direct g-code transmission via serial port Model of the printer is unknown, got it as present, probably something generic cartesian on arduino mega and ramps boards stitched together and with marlin firmware.
I've used accepted answer from here to try moving this thing from terminal.
How to directly send G... | Mine is a wild guess, but judging from:
echo:Unknown command: "starto"
ok
echo:Unknown command: "SD init failstartuthor"
ok
echo:Unknown command: " (none, default config)50.00 Z2.50 E2rBy00.00 Y0.00 Z0.00echo"
ok
echo:Unknown command: "Unknown command"
ok
echo:Unknown command: " "starto"own comm"
ok
echo:Unknown comma... |
Slic3r - Can I add new infill patterns? Slic3r comes with a handful of infill patterns/algorithms, including Rectilinear, Hexagon, 3D Hexagon, Concentric, and Hilbert Curve.
Are there any patterns/algorithms already made and available that I can add to Slic3r? If so, how can I add them in? | Although the core of Slic3r is written in C++ a lot of other components such as infill generation are written in Perl. Since Slic3r is open source there is nothing stopping you from writing your own infill module in Perl and recompiling your own version of Slic3r.
If your considering doing this you can find the existi... |
How does the home position work on a Prusa i3 RepRap Printer? By what process does the Prusa i3 determine it's home position?
I have a feeling that it works like this, but I'm not entirely sure about it:
If none of the end stops are activated; assume you are somewhere between Max-X, Max-Y, Max-Z and the point 0,0,... | It works like you describe, but it does not move all axes at the same time. It first moves the X-axis, subtracting steps while the X endstop is not pressed. When the X-axis is is homed (the X-endstop is gets pressed) it repeats the procedure for the Y-axis and finally the Z-axis. |
Print speed and settings for printing below 0.1mm resolution on PLA I recently purchased an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus delta printer, and I'm interested in trying to print slightly below the 0.1 mm stated lower limit of layer height. I'm not interested in trying to push much below 0.06 mm, more just 0.08 mm to give so... | To answer this question for anyone who will find this of use, I printed this calibration cube at 25mm to a side (125% scale in Cura) with my Kossel Plus using the following settings:
0.08 mm layer height
45 mm/s print speed
200°C extruder temperature with PLA
Based on articles I read, I wanted to play it safe with ... |
Ender 3 Pro + SKR mini E3 1.2 + BLtouch doesn't work with downloaded bin file I have a Ender 3 Pro V1. I installed the Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 V1.2 + TFT35 touchscreen + Antclabs BLTouch + a pre compiled bin from here .
the board works
the screen works
the BLTouch is erratic
A) it tries to exceed the X limits and m... | A) it tries to exceed the X limits and makes the loud clicking sound while performing the bed leveling. it even tries to move past the X end stop switch.
This tells me that the firmware you use is faulty - it has a faulty bed-size or home.
B)when printing, it moves to the far right rear corner and extrudes off of the... |
How to change temperature every 25 layers (or 5 mm) in Ultimaker Cura or G-code? I want to print this heat tower calibration test.
The instructions say to change the temperature every 25 layers. It also tells me to use G-Code command M104 Sxxx
First, is there a way to specify this command using Ultimaker Cura?
If no... | Every time you see a Z movement that matches the layer height (eg. 0.20 mm) you can assume that is the end/start of one "layer".
It should have a line like:
;Layer count: 17
;LAYER:0. ; mine has this as the first layer
M107
G0 F2400 X67.175 Y61.730 Z0.250. ; moves to Z0.250 mm for the first layer, with layer th... |
Sketchup designed "Block with hole" printed solid in Cura When I export my SketchUp STL model to Cura it looks good in solid mode but in the layers mode some holes are filled up.
To find the reason why, I broke down the original model by deleting the parts that come out ok, and ended up with a block 50x100 mm with a ho... | Problem Statement
SketchUp does not always create STLs in ways that are closed, watertight manifolds - a block with a bore is, if created as a block first and then bored out, actually 2 surfaces if made with SketchUp:
a cylinder with its normals facing inside and no top and bottom
a block that has 2 holes in opposite ... |
Can I resolder a power connections with a partially burnt board Recently my RAMPS power connector caught fire while heating the heated bed. I suspect this was a defect caused by the connector, and de-soldered/removed it as best I could. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I'm looking for advice on whether It is possibl... | Possible? Yes. Advisable? Perhaps not. Since it is the power connection, I would be tempted to solder the cables directly to the board. If the board is found to work, I would then install an external MOSFET for the heated bed, to reduce the amount of current that the controller has to handle. |
Pololu - connect motor supply ground and logic supply ground Is it okay to directly connect together the grounds of the logic supply and the motor supply when using a Pololu style stepper driver?
If yes/no, why so? | That depends on how much noise you have on your motor power supply ground. You definitely want the 100 µF capacitor to have a good high frequency response. Motors turning on and off can be noisy, and that noise can cause false clock signals in your logic circuitry if you tie the grounds together. |
How Do Tool Path Algorithms Decide Which Direction to Print a Closed-Loop Polygon I understand how slicer programs create sets of closed-loop polygons to print on a layer-by-layer basis. For a given closed loop polygon which needs to be printed, the tool path generator will know the coordinates and how those coordinat... | While this answer makes a valid attempt at answering the question, it is based on personal experience.
I went to the literature and directly to the source code in Cura to find the answer. In the academic article "Identifying the Directions of a Set of 2D Contours for Additive Manufacturing Process Planning", Volpato ... |
Zortrax m200 skipping through menu options on it own and live print bed Out of the blue I’ve noticed my m200 has been skipping through menu options as if someone is pushing and scrolling the control knob randomly. Then getting a print off today I got several small electric shocks off the print bed through the spatula. ... | This sounds really concerning.
Instantly remove the machine from the power and check EVERY wire if it might be broken!
Check if your power supply is properly grounded!
Check if the connectors of the bed are undamaged! |
How to increase the printing quality when using abs (slicer config)? I have checked several different sites giving different configurations for the slicer. Let's say that the average extruder temperature is 230°C. I know that the complexity of the object matters a lot for the printing quality. What I am concerning is t... | maybe this will help you out...
Iam using a Ultimaker 2+, only with ABS filament, and the software Cura. Cura is a good software but you cannot edit every option like in other slicers, Iam just using the default ABS profile.
Most of the times Iam printing in 0.2mm quality, speed varies, smaller objects get printed s... |
Can 1.75 mm filament be used in a printer that takes 3 mm filament? As an extension from this question, is there any reason that you would not be able to use 1.75 mm filament in a printer that takes 3mm filament? I know you would have to change the filament size in the slicing of prints but would there be any oth... | Typically an extruder and hot end are designed for one or the other, and cannot support the other without mechanical changes.
The extruder may not be able to grip a smaller diameter filament with enough force to assure even feeding and retraction.
The hot end, however, is much more complex. The filament has to be pus... |
How do slicers convert an STL file to G-Code? I was wondering how slicers work, how their code runs to generate a G-Code file. How is an STL file interpreted through a slicer.
How does the math work for generating supports, build plate adhesion?
I couldn't find any information, so can anyone help with this technical qu... | Slicing in General
An STL is a set of triangle surfaces. A Watertight STL - for slicing purposes - has surfaces that always create closed outlines if cut parallel to the XY plane.
A Slicer does exactly that: it creates plane-cuts at the indicated Z-heights, takes the plane-cut's outline(s), and decides a direction and ... |
How to attach bowden tubing to other side of extruder? I built a drybox to house the filament roll but now I have to figure out how to attach the PTFE bowden tubing to the other side of the extruder.
Currently the filament just feeds in through the countersunk hole on the MK8 CR-10 style extruder tension lever, but i... | There are several ways to mount a PTFE tubing to the extruder's feeding side.
Connector solution
You'll need a pair of PTFE tubing couplers, a length of PTFE tubing and tapping tools for the mounting, and the lever should be metal:
Disassemble the extruder
Take the intake side lever
open up the intake hole to your ... |
How to slice thin curved wall I'm trying to print a part with thin walls. I've designed it with wall 1.2 mm thick, so that I should get three 0.4 mm lines. This works just fine for the straight lines, but for the radiused corners, Cura 4.3 insists on trying to print infill. This infill is only added where the... | Even though each path, in theory, is concentric around the center point of the arc, the pathing does not always work out that way - especially around corners and radii.
While your 1.2mm walls should always allow for three 0.4mm paths, if the slicer rounds down the overall thickness to 1.19mm, it will not detect enoug... |
Proper settings for printing rubber and rubber-like materials? I am struggling finding how to print complex shapes made of rubber, tpu, tpe...
Are there any clear guidelines on how to print those materials without deforming and uncontrolled retraction?
The printer is not a problem, I can print on:
Delta WASP (the on... | First off, you need the right extruder design. Specifically, the filament path between the drive gear or hob and hot end must be extremely well-constrained. 1.75mm TPE filaments (thermoplastic elastomers) will buckle in an instant if given the chance. That means they will try to squeeze out of any little opening in the... |
Trouble with sizing in Fusion 360 I had imported a .stl file into Fusion 360- from Blender, but I couldn't size it to my required dimensions. Then I tried to make an object in Fusion. It works but when I want to size it (by hitting the D key) it says:
[Error: Sketch geometry is over constrained]...
I realise if I... | Welcome to SE.3DP!
First off, F360 isn't the best with STL files. If you're having trouble with constraints and dimensions, I would suggest watching this Maker's Muse video first: How to use Constraints! CAD for Newbies with Fusion 360.
Second, Fusion360 is very tricky with importing STL's. My steps below should hel... |
Smooth transition between a PTFE tube and the back of a push-fit coupler I'm creating a reverse Bowden setup to guide my filament from spool to extruder, through a path which contains two couplers in the middle as follows:
[spool] --- |#= --- =#| --- [extruder]
So I have to connect a tube to the back of a coupler (--... | The solution might be to countersink the opening at the threaded portion within the tube. There are various angles available for countersinks, although the more common angles are 82 degrees and 90 degrees.
Drive the countersink to the point where the wall thickness is zero, unlike the drawing below showing some materi... |
What are some good FOSS or free tools for editing STL files for 3D Printing? I'd like to customize and modify some parts on Thingiverse, beyond just simple scaling for 3D printing.
I've been looking for some tools that convert the STL files into something that is easily edited, but so far all that I've found are reall... | You can use OpenSCAD. It's a script based powerful CAD open source software under GPL.
On Thingiverse, a lot of things are made with this CAD software (the Customizer flagged ones) and you can just download their source code (.scad) and directly edit them !
You can also import existing STL and edit them like they wer... |
Is it safe to use photon-resin-calibration for Epax printer? This repository contains a calibration test for DLP printers.
As its file Instructions.txt says, it is an ANYCUBIC RESIN EXPOSURE FINDER by X3msnake.
Are all the files, both .photon and .gcode, compatible with the Epax X1 printer? | Yes, it seems to be.
I tried the test and it worked well. |
How do you remove rough edges from completed prints? All of my completed prints come out with rough edges. What are some methods for removing rough edges from 3D prints? Also, are there any ways to reduce rough edges on prints? For reference, I use a FlashForge Adventurer 3 and PLA filament. | To remove unwanted residual material:
You can scrape with a knife
Use sand paper
use files
Very fine sandpaper or files can smooth out the rough surfaces left from filing or sanding.
Dremel tools tend to be aggressive. They tend to melt the surface if too fast. Buffing wheels are probably the most useful on a Dreme... |
Is there a way to save a multi part print if one fails? I'm printing 6 separate parts in one go, after 4 hours of printing one part failed, but the other 5 are printing nicely.
Is there a way to prevent the print from printing the failed part and continue printing the other 5 parts.
I'm using Cura and an Ender 3 printe... | If you use the OctoPrint print manager, you can exclude regions to be printed using the Exclude Region plugin. The description states that it can be used to rescue partially-failed prints:
The intent of this plugin is to provide a means to salvage multi-part prints where one (or more) of the parts has broken loose fro... |
How can I convert .STL file to .OFF to use in CGAL? I want to skeletize the surface mesh. For that I need to export .STL from Solidworks and then convert that into .OFF file to be able to use it in CGAL library for skeletonzation. How can I do this? | If you can handle a single intermediate step, you may find that OpenSCAD will perform as required. As a test, I created a cube 10 x 20 x 5 within OpenSCAD. I kept the model simple, hoping the code generated would be short.
The results:
OFF
8 12 0
0 0 5
10 0 5
10 20 5
0 20 0
0 0 0
10 0 0
10 20 0
0 20 5
3 ... |
Remove broken heatbreak I'm trying to replace my hotend with the E3D Hemera direct kit. I got to the final step of hot-tightening the hot side and managed to snap my heatbreak. The part that screws into the heat-sink is stuck, though I was able to remove it from the heater block section.
Below is a picture of the heat... | Broken screws or screws with damaged screw heads are typically removed with screw extractors. Since there is already a hole you could "drill" (unscrew) it out with a screw extractor, as it is counter clockwise, it is about creating enough friction to unscrew it from the threads. Beware that it is not drilling and spall... |
Rectangular pattern constraint is lost when applying a fillet to the sketch object I'm working on a model in Fusion 360 that has part of the 2d sketch duplicated with the "Rectangular Pattern" tool. If I try resizing the original object, the duplicates update as expected. If, however, I try applying a fillet to the o... | In some CAD packages, this is exactly what I would expect. Models are constructed by applying operations in a specific order. The fillet is a separate operation, and is not part of the base rectangle.
The base rectangle is defined.
You pattern the base rectangle.
You define a fillet using the base rectangle as the r... |
How does the Filament production process work? What are the steps in the production process that factories that produce filament have to take to get from pellets to a full spool of filament.
Which of these steps are critical for quality (thickness, roundness, long shelf life,..) ? | Some general comments about the process used (plastic extrusion):
The plastic extrusion process is not simple- many textbooks dense with equations have been written about it. The lowest cost industrial extrusion processes do not use pellets at all- because pellets have already gone through an extrusion process so they... |
How to improve printing over 100 mm/s with 0.8 mm nozzle? It has been a long journey failing and printing over and over to be able to print at faster speeds. All I did mostly was trial and error. I am currently trying to wrap my head around a problem that has been asked by user:1998 (mhelvens): Can we manage to make a ... | There are no ready solutions. Check on Klipper Github to see if someone requested that, but I doubt it has been implemented.
100 mm/s with 0.8 line width and something like 0.3 mm layer height results in 24 mm^3/s. It's quite high already, since the Volcano is rated at about 20 mm^3/s.
What you could try to do is to ta... |
The filament is almost impossible to remove Most people complain about the filament not sticking on build plate but mine is vice versa. At first it used to be very good. When I removed the magnetic bed the project would come off easily but for a few days it is like I glue it to the bed with epoxy. It is impossible to r... | This usually happens when your nozzle is too close to bed during the first layer.
Quick fix is redo bed levelling.
Clean your build surface.
Watch you first layer |
Cooling fan noise when head is moving in the X axis I have this fan model, it is a SUNON model number MF50151VX-B00U-A99
and it is a blower type.
When the head is moving in the X-axis it makes noise.
I think this type of fans is not suitable for rapid movement and rapid changes in directions.
I think the noise is... | As discussed in the comments...
The problem with the fan seems to be its flimsy attachment to the printer head. The fact the fan chassis is not firmly kept in place allows for it to act as a soundboard, amplyfing whatever vibration nomally occurs in the motor.
You could probably get a fan that is more silent in the ... |
Issue with 3D printer making super thin layers Recently I've been having trouble printing properly on my Creality Ender-3 printer. I ran a pretty long print (approx. 15 hours) that turned out really well. I then started printing an attachment for the original print and saw that it was printing layers that were extremel... | You need to level you bed. Thin prints happen when the extruder is too low and is printing too close to the bed.
Download the following test codes from this address:
https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html
1) The first code is the most important you will want to run moves the extruder to five points on your board... |
Will lowering print temperature help warping? I realize this issue (warping) has been repeatedly addressed on this site. I've just graduated to high-temp filaments (PC in particular). I don't know much of the physics of this. I'm wondering whether the degree to which the filament contracts is proportional to the amount... | I can't address polycarbonate specifically, but can provide a general overview of the higher temperature filament considerations.
Printing on a raft means that the adhesion temperature of the filament is accomplished. This temperature is the factor to be considered if you are thinking of dropping the printing temperat... |
Options for removing failed prints So basically I've been having a problem with my Micro+.
It will not level / calibrate itself and I can't fix it. The reason I'm here is that I've been using Cura, and somehow it destroyed my bed. (See image)
I would like to know how to get it off, as I tried freezing, scraping and sa... | If you have tried every trick to remove the print, you probably need to replace the build surface. If the PLA is "engraved" into the build surface, your surface is damaged anyways, just replace the surface, or remove the top surface and buy a sheet of glass, preferably borosilicate. |
Inductive kickback protection? Is there an integrated kickback protection in stepper motor drivers or should I make my own?
I am afraid the steppers might fry the driver or the arduino when i turn off the power for them.
I do that by turning off the power supply.
I haven't had an issue yet but it still bothers me. | Kinda, sort of, but not really. I'll look at the A4988 (datasheet).
The motor pins are connected by diodes to ground and Vbb (the motor suppply voltage). Essentially, they act as a bridge rectifier making any back EMF or inductive spikes appear (rectified) on Vbb. If you were to suddenly power down the driver this cou... |
Cura 2.4 missing "split object into parts" I have an stl with multiple parts that I want to split up. Cura 15 had an option to "split object into parts" but I can't find that in cura 2.4. Did it get removed? | I don't think this feature was implemented at all with Cura v2.x.
As the developers say on the v2.1 release, "Cura has been completely reengineered".
Finding proper changelog documentation appears to be pretty hard because they have not posted any actual changelogs except the "user friendly viewable" changelogs whi... |
Weird temperature graph and thermal runaway protection triggered I woke up this morning with my 20 hour long print failed around 15 hour in. I checked the octoprint console, and saw a very weird temperature graph. Later found out thermal runaway protection kicked in, and I thanked the gods for having decided to install... | Periodic temperature irregularities, such as cycling between a higher temperature and lower temperature slowly enough that it spends at least a layer or two at a different temperature than other layers has a tendency to be mistaken for z wobble. You can actually intentionally modulate print temperature (at least of PL... |
Ender 3 nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer as the print progresses I'm trying to print a lithophane with my Ender 3, but the nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer, layer after layer.
I thought that what was causing the problem was perhaps a gear lock due to the fact that the Z rod wasn'... | Finally I've found the damn problem: Adjustable rollers of all axes were flat on one point making layers to shift in all directions.
The effect was less visible on the X and Y axes but it was more notable in the Z axis as the flat part was right from the start of the print. I think that flat part was making difficult ... |
Problems with feeding the filament into the bowden tube I just finished building my Anet A6 and I was working on inserting some filament into the extruder. It was very difficult to get the filament to go in the hole (past the gears to go down to the hot-end). What can I do that will make it easier to get the filament i... | What you are after is a small common mod called... filament guide (as your question title!).
The first one to pop up in my google search was this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:346736 which in turn is a make of this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903
Also, a couple of tricks that help on my print... |
Low Accuracy while perfect travel movement I own an older Anet A6. Flashed the Marlin Firmware on it (and think I configured it properly). Also updated to the latest 2.0.5.3 some days ago). The nozzle is a 0.4 mm one, direct drive extruder.
When printing calibration cubes I used
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER... | You shouldn't calibrate the steps/mm for the X, Y, and Z axes. Just use the default settings which are based on the theoretical values for the given belts/leadscrews/threaded rods.
The mistake is in assuming that the error in the dimensions of the 20x20x20 calibration cube are purely due to the steps/mm setting. Due t... |
Designing/Printing objects with sized holes When trying to print parts that should contain certain sized holes, e.g. for screws, how to achieve that they are sized correctly?
Is it possible to calibrate the printer perfectly, so it prints holes correctly sizes in all common sizes (e.g. starting at 2mm diameter)? Or is... | The reason holes come out undersized is generally the slicer, so calibrating the printer itself cannot solve the issue (without making other things worse). The output of the printer is exactly what it should be, given the G-code provided to it. It's just that the G-code does not represent the hole diameter correctly.
... |
Replacing bearings with Drylin bushings When I purchased my China made Anet A8 printer, it came with the ball bearing style linear bearings for the 8mm guide rods. While pulling parts out of the box and putting them together, I noticed several of the small ball bearings fell out of their respective holders. At the time... | According to igus commercial documentation, these bushings:
do not need any kind of lubrication,
are not susceptible to humidity (but your steel rods might)
work seamlessly in presence of dust (it gets expelled from the bushing with movements)
I've replaced all of my bearings with these, and in my experience, the ... |
Monoprice maker select v2 doesn't extrude but is not clogged So I have been printing lately, and got a new spool of filament. It will extrude when I pre-heat the nozzle and manually extrude it, however when I start to print, it doesn't extrude any filament. Sometimes it works with different filament, but not always. Ho... | Try advancing the extruder manually using the control interface. Extrude about 10 cm of filament to verify that everything is OK with the machine.
Is the filament curling on the way out of the nozzle? If so then there may really be a clog and you should clean it. Invest in some cleaning filament as well.
The idler bear... |
cura shows different Z heights Cura v2.5.0
I've been working in Blender for some time, so I have experience with exporting stl from it with exact size and I had no scale issues with slicing.
But today cura showed a strange thing.
These are 3dBenchy and a stretched cube which are supposed to have 45mm height, also "boun... | Converted comment on OP to answer:
The comment links to a question on SE.Blender; the answer that led to the solution is quoted below.
The STL exporter doesn't take Scene Scale into account. Import your
STL back into Blender (it will have the same size) and drag Scene
Scale up back to 1.0, and you'll see how t... |
Generating mold from stl file of the 3D drawing of the object I want to know how to make a mold of a 3D design in .stl format.
Suppose I have a 3D partin .stl format (for e.g. a cylinder) and I want to make/design a mold for this object (i.e. the structure through which I could make the cylinder). Is there any way to ... | You can also bring the model and a big box into slic3r, align and orient them (enclose the model in the box), and do a subtract modifier, leaving a hollow where the two intersected. You probably want to do this twice, for a top mould and a botom mould. I've done this, but I don't see any instructions online for it. :(
... |
When did mass produced FDM printers become available? I know very little about the history of 3D printing, except that SLA came first (in the 1980's?), and FDM development was probably held back by patents.
By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists, in the <€300 price range, as price-reduced ... | By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists [..]
Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines
No, not by any means. The RepRap project started in 2005, and by 2008-2010 there were several open-source printer designs out there that were somewhat workable for hobbyists. These designs we... |
Anet A8 Installing second extruder without changing board I am wondering if it is possible and safe to add a second extruder to my Anet A8 without changing the main board. I was thinking splitting my Z motor wires to free up the Z2 axis motor connector on the main board, using this connector for the second extruder mot... | That is not possible without changing to a different printer main board. The Anet A8 board has 4 integrated (A4988) stepper drivers, one for X, one for Y, one for Z and one for E (extruder 0).
Both Z steppers are controlled by a single stepper driver (they are wired in parallel to the single Z stepper driver), there... |
How to switch from PETG to either PLA/ABS mid print? I have an Ender 3 Pro and I'm about to print a relatively large model on it.
I've been printing in PETG and I'd like to use up the last of the roll during this print.
When the roll runs out however, I don't currently have any PETG lying around but I do have two brand... | You should do a complete calibration for ABS (temperature tower, E steps, flowrate %) before starting the print, then when you change filament remember to apply all the parameters I mentioned.
While I'm not in favour of using the flow rate % to correct the E steps calibration, since you are doing it mid print this may ... |
3D printing references for beginners I have just received a 3D printer for Christmas (Robo R2). I am confused by the sheer amount of settings that I can tweak and I'm hesitant to do so until I know more about them. I was wondering if anybody has any recommendations for literature on:
3D printing in general (geared ... | Welcome to the fantastic, sometimes frustrating but most often glorious world of 3D printing David! :)
Your question is really very very broad, but here's my contribution to make your first steps a success. First of all: I don't have experience with the Robo R2, but judging from the specs available online, I would sa... |
No extrusion, but manual extrusion works I just bought and build my first 3d printer (HE3D K280 with Marlin) and I'm encountering some problems with Cura 4 and Repetier. When I load and slice a part, the printer does not extrude anything during printing. However, when I manually extrude like 100mm (G1 F100 E100) it doe... | I think that you have the incorrect diameter specified (e.g. 2.85 mm instead of 1.75 mm) in your slicer; this also appears from a calculation, see below. Note that you can calculate from extruded volume entering the hotend, or deposited volume. For the first you could calculate the line width of the deposited line and ... |
Find OpenSCAD code from image I have an OpenSCAD model which I am looking at in the application, code to the left and the rendering to the right.
Am trying to modify a certain piece, and have commented out all the commands that I believed were related to that piece, but there is still one subtracted cube left, i.e. so... | To my knowledge, OpenSCAD does not have any such feature. However, a related feature might help you: the debugging aid modifier characters. By inserting %, #, !, or * before an object (including aggregate objects), you can control how it renders in relation to the whole file; this makes it possible to do "binary search... |
What motherboard ID is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware? I'm struggling with my new printer, and I just want to make sure that I have the basic configured correctly.
What motherboard ID in configuration.h is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware? | Marlin appears to support older versions of the board (and possibly this one) according to this line
#define BOARD_MKS_13 47 // MKS v1.3 or 1.4 (maybe higher)
in boards.h which can be found here.
The company also has a guide and looks to provide pre-configured (but not fully configured?) downloads o... |
Initial auto-leveling configuration I'm near the end of a full electronics swap of a dead 3d printer. I'm using an MKS Gen 1.4 board with Repetier firmware. This is my first try at attempting to set up auto-leveling from scratch.
I've got the inductive probe mounted, positioned and calibrated so that running a G30 (... | Well, I´m using marlin for my printers and normally the offset is negative, this difference is from the 0.0 Z value sensor and nozzle.
For example, I have an aluminum plate, so this material is less inductive and I'm getting a height of nozzle 1.2 mm; normally this value should be above 5mm, but my printers reads 1.2... |
Ender 3 - Tiny strings in print Suddenly my prints start having small strings and I'm not sure what to do to eliminate them.
I have already tried to clean the filament tube, cleaned up the nozzle, and played with various retraction settings. Nothing seems to work and I still see these small strings.
Any idea how I can... | What you're seeing does not look like stringing, which I would characterize as material that exited the nozzle after extrusion was supposed to have stopped, usually due to missing or insufficient retraction, but like the extrusions along the concave contours failed to bond to the previous layer and got drawn across to ... |
What material can I use to make my own cake molds? I would like to make custom cake molds.
I've asked about this in a few stores that specialize in cooking equipment, they said this wasn't possible.
I wonder if 3D printing makes it possible. It would require a material that is food-safe, as per Which are the food-s... | I would say that FDM printing in general is out of the question for this task, ABS and PLA would both melt in the oven, and the grooves in the print from the FDM process would make it a nightmare to clean.
My initial thought was an SLA printer ( $1000+ ) which uses a Photopolymer Resin hardened by a UV light, and base... |
Printing a building from its laser scanned exterior point cloud I have a very dense point cloud (billions of points) of the exterior of a building obtained by laser scanning it with a Leica head.
I successfully subsampled it down to around 500,000 and I'm trying to print the building by first creating a mesh.
I tried u... | Yes there are similar algorithms, but (afaik) not as ready to use programms.
I wrote a bachelor thesis by my own, where i converted poind cloud datas of scanned surfaces into contour octrees. This based on the work of Laine (https://users.aalto.fi/~laines9/publications/laine2010i3d_paper.pdf) and the approach of using... |
Platform support up to a certain Z height in Ultimaker Cura/G-code Ultimaker Cura offers a platform support type of “touching buildplate” which enables the printer to only make a raft for parts of the object that should be touching the build plate. It also offers “everywhere” for any object that might be hanging over t... | Is there a software that will enable this?
Yes, as of Ultimaker Cura 3.3 Beta, Ultimaker Cura allows you to specify an area which will not be considered for adding supports. In your case you could define everything above 4 mm to be excluded from building support structures.
You can look here for this very new ... |
Bronze Filament Problem I made a torus that was 1 on the x and y axes, and 3 on the z axis in Blender. It is supposed to be a bead for a beaded necklace. It was exported to Cura as an .stl, then printed on a Lulzbot Mini. It worked fine in plastic, but when we tried it with bronze filament the nozzle clogged and it did... | Since we do not know more about the printer and its settings it is most likely that the issues lies within the printer and the temperature/print speed settings. Fill materials do print differently than just colored plastic of the same type. Find valid print parameters for the type of filament that you can modify as nee... |
What is wrong with my first layers? I just assembled a Prusa i3 MK3 and went through the calibration process, but when I print the first layer doesn't look good and my prints come unstuck from the bed. I think it might be Z height but this was as high as I could put the probe without the paper moving on the calibration... | Judging by the images you posted in your question, the first layer distance is too far away from the bed for the current filament flow.
This could either be related to:
having an offset on the first layer like a height correction in the slicer,
an incorrectly levelled (read height adjusted) bed, (you did the paper t... |
What is stepper motor binding? (When belts are too tight) Recently I have been getting some layer shifting starting at layer one. I have had layer shifting at higher layers due to various reasons but mainly for the belts being too loose. But now I am reading that layer shifting can also be caused by belts being too tig... | I think the RepRap wiki is using the word "binding", which translates to "stick together or cause to stick together in a single mass" (from Google dictionary), to indicate that some sort of friction is experienced (as you experience when things are sticking together).
When there is too much tension in the belt, pulley... |
Y-axis layer shifting on my Ender 3 My 3D prints shift along the Y-axis on my Ender 3 3D printer. I don't know what to do. My Y-axis belt is tight, So I don't think that is the problem... | Check for wobble in the X gantry and Y gantry also your Y-axis belt should vibrate like a snare when you pull it and let go. Same goes for your X-axis belt. If that doesn't work see if going back to Cura 4.6 helps (it did for me) and lower your acceleration in Cura (advanced settings movement). |
Can I use different sized steppers for different axes? So basically, I have 3 different types of steppers.
A NEMA 23 stepper for the Z-axis,
a good quality NEMA 17 for Y-axis and
another lower quality NEMA 17 for X-axis.
This setup should work right?. I'm using TMC2209's stepper drivers and all are well within the dr... | Each axis is fine using a different stepper size and/or quality. You will still need to tune their operating current and steps/mm for each of course. Make sure your motor mounts fit too.
Where it might become challenging is if you wanted two different steppers on the SAME axis. As in, a NEMA17 + NEMA23 for a dual Z axi... |
Anet A8 Hotbed Not Heating Correctly For my Anet A8 I replaced the stock power supply 12V/20A with a eTopxizu 12V/30A, plus I added a fused 250V/10A power switch and mosfet. The issue that I am having involves the hotbed, it has no issue heating up, but it doesn't heat up past 94 degrees Celsius when I try to print us... | That is actually not uncommon to happen for the Anet heated beds, many users report this. Mine was able to reach about 100 ℃ out of the box (took a while to get there), but not beyond.
For the bed to reach higher temperatures you would need to make some adjustments. You should at least insulate the bottom of the heate... |
Build plate (PEI on glass) isn't flat after several months of use? I got a Wanhao Duplicator 6 printer branded as a Monoprice Ultimate about a year an and a half ago, 6 months after I got it I decided I hated the buildplate (I had to use a gluestick on every print to get it to stay down) so I removed the original fake ... | Looking at the picture, the first thing that came to mind was, "are you sure it's the bed?".
The height variance looks very regular, and while I'm unfamiliar with this printer's specific mechanics, my thought process trended to the Ender 3 and other v-wheel extruder mounts. If the extruder and gantry carriages are mo... |
How do I determine the acceleration value for my printer? When the print head changes direction, the printer must accelerate and decelerate the print head. When calibrated correctly, the printer is able to do this quickly and without causing the printer to shake too much, without drastically slowing down the print proc... | As Tom pointed out, binary search is the best way. In case that term isn't familiar to all readers, here's a little more detail:
Establish an acceleration value that you're sure is too low (call it $L$), and one that you're sure is too high ($H$). It sounds like you know such values already from experience.
Figure ou... |
Customized Ultimaker 1: Extruder motor does not move I recently upgraded my Ultimaker 1. The upgrade includes a different stepper motor for the Extruder, the same a Ultimaker 2+ would use. I plugged the new motor and nothing happened.
To eliminate the problem I ordered a new PCB and stepper motor drivers, reassembled ... | Did you heat the hotend before attempting to move the extruder? Most firmwares block cold extrusion. If you send the printer M302 it will allow the extruder motor to move without the hotend being above the temperature set in the firmware. Jumpers next to drivers are used to set microstepping, no need to adjust these... |
What is the simplest way to render an image of an obj exported from Tinkercad? I like Tinkercad so far for it's very simple UI. (I'm new to 3D modeling and very confused by Blender and the like.) However, I'm not using it to do 3D printing just yet. For I'd like to be able to be to slap textures on the models I make an... | For your purposes, consider that Meshmixer (free) can open .OBJ files and display them in any position you desire.
I use Meshmixer quite a bit for model editing, but have not used it for .OBJ files with textures. I searched my drive and found quite a few .OBJ files, but was not able to present or add textures, due to ... |
Would 3D printing multiple copies at once saves time? I am wondering - of course if the 3D printer's bed big enough - printing multiple copies of the same print could save me significant amount of time in a small production line, excluding minor wastage such as setup time, post-processing time, etc.
e.g. if my foo p... | Actually no. It will take slightly more for each addition. You also then have the point of failure, where one gets knocked off and ruins all the prints.
The fastest way to print multiple objects is one at a time. In fact slic3r lets you do just that with their sequential printing feature.
The reason is, the time it tak... |
Monoprice Maker Ultimate Extrudes Too Much Filament At Start Today I received my Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer. It is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator 6 for reference. I am using the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator 6 in Simplify3D.
Here is the Start G-Code that Simplify3D has setup for me via the Configura... | Changing the Simplify3D start script to this will change the nozzle purge to the same length as what was on your SD card.
G28 ; home all axes
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 Z10 ; lower
G1 E20 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly<---------Change E20 to E3, E is the extrusion length
G1 E10 F60 ; purg... |
"print" menu not loading on Monoprice MP Select Mini V2 I have an MP Select Mini V2 and when I turn on the printer and select the "print" menu it hangs while saying "please wait" instead of listing the .gcode files stored on the SD card.
I have been using that printer with that SD card for hundreds ... | Too many files on SD card
I removed some files and now it works, it seems like the menu would not load if the SD card contained more files than the printer could display on the print menu (they didn't take up a lot of space in memory, though). |
Nema Stepper used in Flashforge 3D printer I am using Flashforge Creator Pro and a Flashforge Finder
I want to know which NEMA stepper model is used in each of these two printers, or is it NEMA 17 for both?
Their model numbers are:
42HB40F08AB-04 [W-42MM, L-40MM], and;
42HD4027-01[W-42MM, L-40MM] | Nema 17 is about the physical size of the motor, ie screw hole placement. It doesn't specify anything about the power of the motor. If you are looking to replace the motor, you need quite a bit more info than that it is Nema 17, such as the steps/rotation and the holding torque. |
How to line up (x,y) print area between hardware and software? I'm trying to line up the physical print bed of my printer (Printrbot Simple Metal) to the virtual print area of the slicer (Cura). So far, they've never been properly aligned. It was never that big a problem because, worst case scenario, my print would si... | The problem you are experiencing is because the position where the y endstop is triggered does not correspond to y = 0, but perhaps corresponds to y = 15 (replace 15 by the offset you're seeing). You can perhaps solve this by adjusting the endstop to trigger at the correct point, but you can also adjust this behavior i... |
Choose infill percentage Since I'm running a 3D printing facility of an engineering school, students are always wondering how much infill percentage affects the stiffness of the part. I know that it is impossible to get a numerical solution for this question, but maybe there is an option to simulate in software an alre... | I don't believe that slicing engines create any sort of solid model that would be useful for CAD simulation. When a slicing engine slices a 3D model, it's goal is to spit out the preferred machine paths in G-Code (of some kind). However, I've read a few articles, done some tests, and heard through the grape vine that a... |
Marlin firmware question for dual extruder I've recently added a second hotend and extruder assembly to my 3D printer and I've made all the necessary changes in the firmware. I've defined the temp sensor for hotend 2, all the pins for heat and temp as well as defined extruders as 2 instead of 1.
The problem is that t... | There is nothing to worry about, this is a feature not a bug.
Extruder refers to the active extruder, the loaded/active tool. Based on the active extruder the Extruder controls either your Extruder E1 (this is known in the firmware as Extruder E0!) or your Extruder E2 (the Extruder E1 from the firmware). |
MKS base 1.5 (E0 & E1) not working I have bought two MKS base 1.5 boards. Both extruder ports are not working. I made sure the stepper motor still works and that there is nothing wrong with the Marlin firmware that I know of.
Any ideas? | The OP has solved the problem as read from a comment on a deleted answer. So far the OP has been reluctant to post the answer; therefore his comment is converted into a community answer.
It appears that the OP had incorrectly configured his firmware considering the comment:
"I figured out what was wrong. Turns out... |
What calibration options should I look into given these defects I printed a temperature calibration cuboid for Hatchbox 1.75 mm PLA, in 1 °C increments from 180 °C to 190 °C.
I have two questions related to this image:
I'm not seeing any difference in quality across the temperature... | Your print does not suffer from layer shifts as you call them. This uneven layer deposition is typically caused by the (positioning) accuracy of your printer. All-in-all, this print does not look so bad. You would get better quality prints on a different style of a printer; most high-end printers have a lowering platfo... |
Ender 3 pro extruder skipping steps, tried multiple things I've already asked this question somewhere else but unfortunately I had little luck.
So... my Ender 3 Pro extruder just started skipping steps, as in the gears (and the gear pinion) will rotate but the filament won't flow. It all started when I changed PLA fil... | Since you've said you can feel a problem at the nozzle pushing it through manually, and since you say it goes away for a while after cleaning, you probably have somewhere that molten filament is getting into that it's not supposed to, then solidifying and jamming. Check that the cooling fan for the heatsink on the cold... |
Gluing silicon heater to aluminium I am making a bed for my 3D printer. I have bought a silicon heater (31x31 cm) and I want to glue it to my custom aluminum bed. The tape that it had from factory was bad, so I removed it. I want to glue it to the aluminum and I don't know what type of adhesive to use, I was thinking g... | I suggest not gluing it. Starting from the top, make a sandwich this way:
Aluminium with holes for bolts - Silicone heater - Thin cork (the one from IKEA, 2 mm thick for office desks is fine) - Thin plywood with holes for bolts (or other stiff material holding at least 60°C)
This way you use the aluminium and the plywo... |
How to wire P.I.N.D.A. v2 to an SKR V1.3 board? I bought a BigTreeTech SKR v1.3 main board and a P.I.N.D.A v2 for my P3Steel MGN. Does anyone know to wire them together and which part in Marlin 2 do I need to change? | TL;DR
To answer your question how (by assuming you have a 4 pins PINDA v2 sensor) to connect the sensor to your board, you have 2 options:
Do not connect the white wire and treat the sensor as you would use a normal endstop switch (blue is ground, brown is +5 V, black is signal),
Connect the 4 wires (use a splitter ca... |
A4988 driver cooling specifications When exchanging the mainboard of my Ultimaker Original, I found the new (unoriginal) mainboard to have a condensator that is quite a little higher than on the original, which means the fan duct doesn't fit any more.
I read somewhere that those A4988 stepper motor drivers don't have ... | A4988 become hot when a lot of current draw from them . If it is more than 1.5 Amp. Also you will notice missing steps, missing layers, abnormal print and Stepper motor become hot .It automatically shutdown at max temp. |
How do I keep the .stl files from being resized while exporting? I made a few models in Autodesk Inventor. When I tried to get them printed, the printer created a model smaller than the model I made in Inventor (270mm x 200mm). Is there a way to keep them from getting resized?
Here is the model in Inventor:
And here ... | .stl Basics
The .stl format has no inherent sense of which units you use. items are to scale to an ambiguous 1, which could be 1 meter, one millimeter, one lightyear or one inch. To a .stl, only the relative sizing matters. All these faces you see are compared to a line with the length of 1-unit that is
Slicer-Modeling... |
Multi-color printing with desktop 3D printer? My MakerBot printer supports only two filaments at the same time.
What are techniques to print objects with more than two colors for one object? | The most obvious solution is to pause the print and swap filament for another color.
Another option is to splice pieces of filament together, though this does not allow very precise control of when the switch happens. There is also a device that can automatically slice filament this way.
Finally, another option that ... |
Advance extrusion, extruder code help? I not sure what this code does..... I recently bought a titan extruded that needs to be calibrated with my printer (417 microsteps http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly#Firmware_Calibration).
I am having a hard time understanding why they have D_Filament at 2.85 (my pri... | The extruder advance feature is probably not enabled on your printer, so this code effectively does nothing (and you don't need to mess with it). Extruder advance is a feature that tries to compensate for the delay between feeding (or retracting) the filament and the point at which it actually starts to extrude, but it... |
Retraction Causing Skipping I am trying to get rid of stringing on my prints, to do that I have tried turning on a retraction in Ultimaker Cura, and reducing flow.
When I turn on retraction it causes the extruder to skip on the filament. the extruder pulls the material out as it should, but when it pushes back in as i... | Fighting stringing will not work by increasing the temperature of the hotend.
There could be 2 possible causes for your problem,
the first is that you still have a too high retraction speed, too high for your stepper to follow (do note that the default value in Ultimaker Cura is 25 mm/s),
the second is that yo... |
How to re-program Prusa firmware to accept a taller Z axis? Machine specs: Prusa MK3, firmware version 3.1.2.
Facts: I have designed a new Z-axis frame for my printer, so I can print models up to 360mm high in stead of the standard 210mm. The plan has worked and the printer is functioning normally with a new, taller ... | A .hex file is of no use to you, because it consists of compiled firmware which is very difficult to edit. You need to go to Prusa's GitHub and download the source code. Then, find the header file for your model of printer, and change Z_max_pos to the correct value. Finally, you need to compile and upload the firmware ... |
How to upload firmware to reprap printer? When trying to upload firmware I get the following errors:
timeout - cannot sync, or
port is in use
What can be the possible sources of these errors? | There are mainly three reasons for that:
Arduino studio settings should be:
Board: Mega 2560 and
Programmer: AVR ISP
and valid COM port, please see below:
Please close all slicer's instances (Cura, Slic3r, Repetiter) and host servers and other software that communicate with the printer as they lock the COM... |
How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board? If I accidentally reverse the polarity of my power supply to the RAMPS board, what exactly will be damaged?
Will it harm my:
RAMPS;
Arduino Mega;
Stepper motor and/or drivers, or;
Any other electronic part(s)?
Will all or some of them be ... | Polyfuses on the RAMPS
Fire appears to be the immediate issue, in the poly fuses.
From Reddit: reversed polarity, RAMPS on fire
Sooo I made the dumb mistake of reversing the polarity from my psu into the RAMPS 1.4. As warned the ramps did not like this and smoke began to rise from the board. I am pretty sure I saw smo... |
Saving BL Touch settings I have an Ender 3 Pro with a BL Touch.
In my G-code should I add an M500 after the G29, to save the results to the EEPROM? I know storage size is an issue, so does storing these results cause an issue?
I believe the saved results can be activated before the next print using: M420 S1
If I do,... | From this source you can read:
After a G29 the leveling data is only stored in RAM. You have to use M500 to save the bed leveling data to EEPROM, otherwise the data will be lost when you restart (or reconnect) the printer. Use M502 to reset the bed leveling data (and other settings to defaults). Use M501 to reload ... |
Would a steel, instead of an aluminium, plate be reasonable? I have a Flashforge Creator Dual.
One corner of my print bed is warped down. I am thinking about having a steel print bed made so it would tend to stay flat.
Has anyone tried this? | I would consider getting another aluminum build plate for the following reasons:
Lightweight. Aluminum is a very lightweight metal, making it suitable for most machines that have injection molded platform arms. This reduces potential sagging of the arms and overall load on the -Z- axis stepper motor.
Conductivity. Re... |
Cantilever snap-fits print axis I'm new to 3d printing and need to design and print a case on an Ultimaker S5 using PLA.
The case is box like and consist of a top and a bottom part. I was thinking about cantilever snap-fits to join the two parts. I read that these snap-fits need to be printed in the X-Y-plane for bett... | Let's look at the general design.... it is a case... so a box of to halves. And we need some kind of connector...
How about splitting the connector into a separate C-shaped piece? That way the connector clip can be printed with the C to the plane, getting maximum durability out of either pice. You just need to print s... |
Ender 3 BLTouch fails in assorted ways My recently installed BLTouch probe regularly fails to perform ABL properly. There seem to be 3-4 failure modes:
Probe manages some points but fails partway through, with a "probing failed" message on the LCD screen, rendering it necessary to power-cycle the printer
Probe deplo... | You had a faulty BLTouch. Mine experienced the EXACT same behavior and replacing it with a new BLTouch fixed the issue entirely (everything else I kept exactly the same, firmware etc), I simply swapped over the probe + cable with the new one.
When connecting the new BLTouch, make sure you wire the servos connector cor... |
Are black filaments more brittle? I've been 3D printing for a while and I've noticed that, when printing small parts, my colored plastics (PLA, PLA+ and ABS) have better layer adhesion than black ones.
Did you notice this?
What could be the cause? | Not inherently.
There are two things at work that might cause one color to test weaker than others even as its properties otherwise are functionally identical:
A bad print among good ones.
A bad roll among good ones.
Let's take a look at both, then do a little excursus into plastics and color.
A bad print
There are p... |
Can I use Creality bed on Prusa MK3S? I need a Prusa MK3S smooth bed and I am not able to get it unless I wait for a few month.
But I can have a Heated Bed Cover for Ender 3/Ender 3 pro/Ender 5 3D Printer 235X235MM shipped to my door tomorrow moring.
Can I use the above Creality bed on MK3S untill I get an original MK3... | Heaters won't match.
The ender3 is a 24 V machine. The Prusa 3 is a 12 V machine. Heater cartridges and Heatbeds are therefore not interchangeable.
Build surfaces can be adapted.
The Ender3 has a build surface that is a little bigger than the Prusa3, and thus you can, in a pinch, use an ender3 sized build surface and i... |
How do you calibrate a delta robot 3D printer? I have a delta robot 3D printer, but I have no clue how to calibrate it. Any advice? | This answer below is (partially) taken from my answer to Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn't).
Whilst the answer below is for a Kossel, assuming that you are using Marlin, then the process should be more or less the same.
Calibration on any pr... |
Visible lines along Y-axis on Ender 3 Pro I have a model that's placed on the bed exactly like on this picture:
I have constant quality degradation as the bed moves down to print in the upper left corner (1).
Everything is fine on the X (2)-(3) side. It does not have any visible artifacts. All hell goes along the (1)-... | I see some possible issues at work here:
Retraction issues on the arc. You might need to decrease your retraction length a little.
Your bed might have a little play. tighten the eccentric nuts a tiny bit.
As you are at it, check your X-belt, because accuracy on the Y move is affected by the accuracy of the X-head's po... |
SerialException: 'WriteFile failed ([Error 22]...' Printrbot Simple Metal using Cura 15.04.6 Disclaimer: I have read about this elsewhere but haven't found a solution.
Printer: Printrbot Simple Metal with heated bed
Slicer: Cura 15.04.6 (also tried Cura 3.1)
Printing software: Whatever Cura 15.04.6 comes with when p... | From the look of it, and given that you already two different slicers, it look like this may be a hardware issue. I have had very similar error messages with my cheap Chinese printer and this is ultimately why I ended up always printing via the SD card and stop worrying.
That said, the error is about the serial conne... |
What are the downsides and aftereffects of using a smaller nozzle? A lot of consumer desktop F.D.M. printers comes with a 0.4mm nozzle. I'm looking to print fine details objects and I was considering trying to use a smaller size nozzle. But before I do so I would like to establish a list of downsides and unwanted conse... | Here are some things to look out for when switching to a smaller nozzle size:
Curling (out of the nozzle): Make sure the nozzle is clear of any debris to avoid the extruded filament from catching and therefore curling around the nozzle.
Warping: You might experience more warping on the build plate and delamination be... |
3D printer and design software for creating propellers for a toy airplane/drone I would like to begin designing and 3D printing propellers for both a toy airplane and drone that I own. I want to do this for experimental purposes.
I have never used a 3D printer nor have I used any 3D printing design software. So as a b... | First, welcome to 3D Printing SE. This is a great place to ask questions and get answers from people who have walked the same path. I see from your profile that you are not a stranger to StackExchange and the available sites.
This question may be too broad for this SE Group, as it is asking for opinions rather than ... |
How does a layman get a 3D printed replacement part? A plastic gear of an older DVD player broke. I always read about being 3D printing a "repair revolution". So I looked for a template to give to some printing service, but I found none (and nothing close to it).
Could you please explain me, what steps a layman should... | If you have the remaining pieces of the gear and enough remains to determine certain measurements, one can either engineer the gear using a number of gear modeling designs, or one can take measurements directly from the parts and engineer a raw design.
If the gear you have is not particularly peculiar, it is possible ... |
How to make it so that multiple motors respond to I want to make it so that the E1 and E0 do exactly the same as the Y motor and I was wondering if anyone here knew how to do that?
I basically just want to make it so that when the Y motor is triggered, so is the E1 and E0.
I'd really appreciate any help, thanks! | One way to have two E-steppers to do the same work should be to enable MIXING_EXTRUDER in Configuration.h. I have no experience in this myself, but it is a good starting point.
A second way is to actually connect the two identical steppers in parallel. That trick is sometimes used for Z-steppers. I don't expect the cur... |
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