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3d Extruder temperature lower automatically (Prusi I3) when I command to start print from SD card; extruder temperature raise slowly and print start but with in 4-5 minutes suddenly Extruder temperature lower automatically. | Please consider to reference your precise model (genuine Prusa i3 or clone?) as well as the slicer software you are using.
You should be able to note from the panel information what layer the change appears. For example, if you are printing 0.200 mm layer thickness and the temperature change begins at 10.200 height, y... |
Do firmware updates affect print speeds? I flashed the TH3D unified firmware (R2.7) yesterday and so far everything works. I printed the 20 mm cube using the same G-code file I used for my very first print ever. However, with TH3D firmware I noticed that the print head was ridiculously fast compared to the previou... | I agree with @silver, but also wanted to point out that maybe the acceleration values on the old firmware you had were different from the default in TH3D R2.7.
The current settings can be retrieved using the M503 command, which should return the values from the eeprom:
Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
M201 X1000 Y100... |
Ender 3 PRO BLTouch V2 perfect on center with small prints but fails on corners or big prints For my Ender 3 Pro I bought this touch sensor set Chinese clone BLTouch set and changed the printer's firmware to the latest TH3D firmware (first I tried with Creality's original BLTouch firmware but after 4 hours, I never man... | Following Nathan's answer, I've solved my problem with Nathan's suggestions and the method in this video.
What I did?
Flashed Creality's original BLTouch firmware to printer
Heated up bed to 60 °C
Leveled bed the old fashion way first, but with slight resistance (you don't have to level perfectly)
Followed the youtub... |
What kinds of gaps/tolerances should I use when designing pieces that fit together? Let's say I'm modeling a simple box with a lid. Just as an example, we'll say the outer edge along the top of the box is 50mm x 50mm. With 3D modeling software, it's easy to build a lid for this box to surround the top with an inner edg... | I use my clearance values according to my rule of thumb: 0.1mm - to fit with some force, 0.2mm - just fit edge to edge without force.
Examples:
1) 3mm metal cylinder to be pressed into plastic part needs 3mm+0.1mm*2=3.2mm diameter printed hole (clearance from two sides)
2) 3mm screw to fit into plastic part needs ho... |
Calibrated Esteps Causes Extruder Skipping I have replaced the stock extruder on my Ender 3 with one of these:
The grip gear has a smaller diameter, so I calibrated the esteps as per the top google search: Extruder Calibration – 6 Easy Steps to Calibrate Your Extruder...
If I set the esteps so that it's spot on wit... | Consider that the extruder is skipping because it is unable to push filament at the rate you are requesting. By reducing the steps to ninety percent, you are reducing the rate by that much as well.
Typically, a skipping extruder is an indication of clogging, but it does not have to be clogging caused by particulates j... |
Is there any way to correct uneven bed temperature? I'm using an Ender 3 Pro with stock heated bed & glass build surface on it (without any base of stock magnetic plate). My heated bed looks completely flat too despite of many uneven Ender 3 heated beds around.
But when bed temperature set to 70 °C and I ... | I had this exact issue with my Qidi X-Plus. After checking with a thermometer there was a spread of 9°C - enough to burn in (always the same) certain areas when printing at higher extremes of temperatures, or causing poor adhesion in other certain areas at lower temps. Very similar scenario too, I noticed this primaril... |
Printing Plastic Replacement Parts On a number of occasions I've broken small plastic parts that are nearly impossible to replace but could easily be 3-D printed. The latest such mishap is the volume knob on the factory-installed radio on my car.
I have little experience in 3D printing, and would like to be able to... | The easiest way is as you currently do: model the pieces by hand, using (digital) calipers to measure them.
Scanning technology isn't very good, and the models are not of printable quality. Usually, fixing a scan is more work than modeling an item from scratch. |
Can you put PLA parts in your car (in the sun)? I'm in the process of building my own head unit / stereo prototype for a car, which will have a 3D-printed enclosure.
My concern is that cars can get quite hot in the sun, and even more so if you live in hot climates. Some estimations put the interior of cars getting up ... | No, PLA cannot be used in cars standing in the sun. Temperatures can locally get over 50 °C (122 °F).
I have printed sun visor hinge pins from PLA for a car (not exposed to direct sunlight either), but after one day in the sun (it usually doesn't get over 29 °C or about 85 ˚F here too) ... |
Problem with grid infill (line positioning) I have a problem with the grid infill on my BCN3D+ Dual Paste extruder: when I print a structure the lines of the infill are not evenly printed, every two lines the gap between the lines is higher (see the photo) while in the Simplify printing preview (preview image) the spac... | It looks like a case of one axis affecting the other. This is a subset of cases where things are not rigid enough. Basically the movement direction in X is causing an offset in the Y, or whatever you want to call the axes. It is present in small amounts in all screw-driven setups where the screw essentially acts as ... |
Effect of particulates on the viscosity of paste that is used to transport it in extrusion printing I am trying to find research articles that have data on how particulates(metal powder in a paste/hydrogel affect the viscosity of the paste/hydrogel. But I have been coming up blank in my last few hours of research. Is a... | I found a journal article "Experimental study of the viscosity of suspensions"
that looks like what you are looking for. Just like most journals, it costs to access it. Also, it might be available as Open Access; but, I was not able to figure out how. |
precise transformation using meshmixer I am trying to do some edits on an STL file. I am trying to use meshmixer for this. I am essentially trying to move a hole in the following picture
and widen the hole on the bottom of the part. I was playing around with meshmixer and it seems that it can do this by sculpting rat... | It's possible to close over a hole using Meshmixer. I've done exactly that recently, although the "hole" was a depression, the process would be the same. As you've discovered, Meshmixer can be considered somewhat imprecise.
Fusion 360 will import the model you wish to modify. You would then turn off edit history, conv... |
Electric shock from ender 3 printer PSU I had recently purchased an ender 3 and after setting it up and plugging it in, I received an electrical shock from the power supply. I live in the UK and so I was provided an EU to UK adapter which I used and I set the voltage to 230 V.
Does anyone know why I was shocked a... | The "shock" is likely from noise filtering circuitry at the power supply's input. For filtering, every power supply has a small capacitor that connects the live input wire to ground (a so-called "class Y capacitor"). A small amount of current can flow through this capacitor, which can give an annoying, but otherwise ha... |
BLTouch error causing bed and nozzle temp setpoints to change to zero I replaced my CR-10 motherboard with no problems and ran fine for a few weeks, then decided to add a BLTouch. BLTouch was enabled from the config.h during compile.
I had heating issues at first but eventually figured out I had the thermistors plugs s... | I was wondering if it had something to do with my Z axis and BLTouch. When I unplugged the Z Axis on the printer the extruder wouldn't lower only raise so I plugged it back in and it moves in the right directions. The mother board I'm using is a SKR E3 Mini V2 and the BLTouch is 3.1 On that version motherboard the BLTo... |
Can I use 20 gauge wire for my Mk2a Heatbed? I purchased the following wire for my MK2a heated bed:
McMaster Carr
1 8209K11 840 Degree F Braided Oven Wire 20 Gauge, Tan, 10 ft. Length 1
Will this be acceptable? I'd like to print with ABS, which I know that the heatbed has to be hotter than when printing with PLA. | Your wire should be rated for at least the necessary 11 amps which the MK2a heatbed is supposed to take.
You can check this by measuring the resistivity of your wire:
Always test the heatbed wiring for resistance. Remember, at 10A, 0.1Ohms means 1V voltage drop means 10W dissipated by the wiring!
as taken from h... |
Cura printer settings for Alladinbox SkyCube 3D I've just purchased an Alladinbox SkyCube 3D that I want to use to print board game miniatures and other fun stuff.
However, the instructions do not give the settings I need to put into software like Ultimaker Cura, and this is where I need some help so that I can genera... | Okay, after some research and experimentation, I've come up with some settings that seem to work.
Firstly, some specs about the Alladinbox SkyCube 3D:
Firmware: Marlin
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
Nozzle speed: 20 to 70 mm/s
Layer thickness: 0.1 to 0.4 mm
Printing area: 110 x 110 x 125 mm (WLH)
Note: There is NO coolin... |
Are there any "best" or at least "common" practices to handle allowances in OpenSCAD code? I'm designing a few mechanisms with OpenSCAD, and one of the parameters that need adjustment between printers/filaments is allowances between pieces that need to be assembled together (for example, if I want a "5 mm diameter... | It helps to understand the different aspects of dimensions, so you can use the terminology correctly. This will help you define your variables in OpenSCAD with correct names. (Tolerance is the wrong term to use.) And once you have correct names, you'll understand how to specify the dimensions in OpenSCAD.
Toleranc... |
Heated bed thermistor placement I just recently upgraded my Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed (and longer x-axis). I looked up some tutorials, and all of them placed the thermistor as in the picture on the left below, so I did too. However, the design of the heat plate seems to strongly suggest thermistor placem... | Depending on thermistor type you can get values from around 1ohm/C to 0.01ohm/C
so placing it on particulat place on heatbed (HB) could be very important. If objects are placed in the center then it's quite obwious that thermistor should be placed also in the middle.
Another issue in terms of thermistors are the wires... |
Adding custom M Codes to Marlin If I wanted to add my own custom M Codes in Marlin - in which source code file would I do that? | In the file Marlin_main.cpp on line 7131 there is a switch case:
(To turn on line numbers go to File>Preferences and click Display line numbers.)
case 'M': switch (codenum) {
#if ENABLED(ULTIPANEL)
case 0: // M0 - Unconditional stop - Wait for user button press on LCD
case 1: // M1 - Conditional stop - W... |
Converting an undirected graph to optimal G-code paths I am developing an image to gcode program, that would recognize edges and generate corresponding G-code to be sent to a plotter. I was able to detect edges using the Sobel operator; then the edges are converted to an undirected graph using a search heuristic of my ... | Quote of comment of R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE on question reads:
Pretty sure it is NP-complete (equivalent to travelling salesman problem), no? –
This is correct; this is route optimization at its purest, and is by no means a new problem. You want to travel the shortest total distance between all vertices of... |
Complete list of fasteners for the Sintron Kossel TL;DR
I need a complete list of fasteners (bolts, nuts and washers) for the Sintron Kossel.
Has anyone bought this kit, and knows the answer, or knows where this is documented?
A complete list would be great, but in particular, I need the dimensions (M2.5/3/4/5? and le... | I found two lists for the Kossel mini (the documents you referenced are for a mini, so that is what I am assuming you got). One as a Google Doc and one as an order sheet
Both seem to list all the fasteners.
Here is a Sintron mini carriage assembly and it lists the hardware included
I found an ebay listing for the ... |
What is the benefit of the Arduino shield based electronics? Some electronics come as a single PCB. They have CPU and everything on just one board.
Other electronics are a shield for an Arduino. So these are always two boards. The Arduino and the other PCB.
You probably don't want to exchange the Arduino unless it is... | Many 3d printer motherboards are based on Arduino/Atmega microcontroller and just add some stepper motor drivers, MOSFETs and such in a single board. That explains why you use the Arduino IDE to update or modify their firmware.
Now why you would want to use an Arduino + an Arduino shield board like RAMPS? Well if you'... |
Controlling more fans with RAMPS board I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin. With Marlin, you can control a large number of fans with the M106 P<fan index> command. I'd like RAMPS to control some additional fans, independent of layer fan. Are there free pins on RAMPS 1.4 to do that? Otherwise, could I setup the RAMPS... | From the sources of Marlin you can find how may fans you can use, even if you're not a coder it should be doable. From there you can find how to set the pins for the fans, provided that there are free unused and exposed (so that you do not have so solder directly to the microprocessor). First find how many fans are pos... |
How do I remove a 3D print stuck to the glass build plate I printed a model and now I can't remove it.
I have been chiselling away with a putty knife and made little or no progress. I even heated the bed up to 70 °C. That really didn't seem to help.
Last time, I put it in vice, and tried to free it that wa... | It's useful to know what material you used for the print. Also, you've referenced the glass that broke in the vise, which implies a glass bed, but did you use any adhesive spray or other application?
Allowing for all of this unknown information, there may be a solution for your release. Our library makerspace has a sm... |
Ender 3 weird drop in bed level I have an Ender 3 a 3DTouch, with the SKR Mini E3 1.2 board.
From one day to another the probe started producing this pattern, where the right side of my bed (5x5 mesh, tried with 3x3, 7x7, all produce the same pattern) just drops by a significant amount. The bed is the Creality glass b... | Considering this is an Ender, it is probably caused by the rollers on the X axis or the un-driven right Z post.
I've also seen behavior like this caused by a too constraint PTFE Bowden tube, at the far end the tube pulls on the carriage lifting it slightly upwards, hence a different/larger gap. |
Maker Select Plus 3D Printer Head Size Settings for Cura I want to print multiple objects in a single G-code file on my Maker Select Plus 3D Printer.
On the Cura "Machine>Machine Settings..." menu, what are the correct settings for "Printer head size" in the upper right quadrant?
My best guess is below:
Note 1: I'... | TL;DR
The settings that you seem to need can be found here: Print One At a time settings? CURA:
You actually can!
Providing that none of your object is too tall (taller than the Gantry
clearance). Also the objects cannot be too close from each other (when
you activate the option and move objects on the be... |
Producing closely fitting parts I would really like to be able to print moving parts that fit well enough to move without excessive friction, but also aren't excessively loose. Using an Ultimaker 2, what should be my expectations be, and how would I go about produce well fitting parts?
Using a tool like Openscad to g... | There are a lot of factors to 3D printing parts that work and fit together.
A lot of it will be discovered by trial and error, but let's try to put you on the right path.
First your material is what matters the most. Specifically their coefficient of thermal expansion, i.e. how much can the plastic change when heat... |
How do I get circles on small interior holes to adhere to the bed? I’m using a RepRap printer, PLA (Hatchbox 1.75 mm), SketchUp, and Slic3r. The heated bed is covered with a blue polyester sticker. When I print small holes (1 to 1.5 mm radius), slicer software considers the holes outside edges for the first layer... | are you using hairspray or tape to help with bed adhesion? If not that might help.
Also try printing the first layer slower or try adjusting the bed level offset so you are squishing the first layer down a bit more. |
Troubleshooting poor adhesion at the edge of the bed I've been printing for a week now on my new printer and have been getting great results, including great adhesion. However, most of my prints have had a fairly small footprint.
Now, I'm stepping up the types of items I'm printing, and I've started to run into a prob... | There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed.
Some cheap things to try would be...
Adding a brim to the print.
Blue painters tape on th... |
Strange behaviour x and y axis - corner of print Some background to the problem:
Several months ago I started getting poor print quality in one section of my prints (back left corner of bed) - I diagnosed that the plastic X axis carriage and the right Y axis carriage had distorted from heat over a period of 4 years run... | After one further check (stepper driver current/VREF), which I didn't think could be the problem due to not adjusting to cause the problem; it turns out this actually was the problem.
All stepper drivers have been reset back to correct VREF for their respective motors minus 10% as a safety margin and everything is prin... |
Do thermistors degrade in accuracy without hard failure? Lately I've been having problems with overhangs not adhering when curvature is outward (stringing across instead) that look like what you'd see at insufficient temperature, and that go away with temperature jacked up a bit (PLA at 220°C, which is a bit extreme) o... | Yes, thermistors can drift in value as well as outright failing (usually open).
In my experience this is not uncommon in thermistors operated above 100 degrees C. The drift is typically downward in resistance so the controlled temperature will be less than the desired setpoint, which is exactly what you are observing. |
Irregular 3D printed part I tried printing from an STL file on the QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I. They recommend using the MakerBot software with the Replicator(Dual) profile. The 3D print that I tried is messed up.
The material used is PLA.
Could you help me determine the ... | Your print isn't cooling fast enough. With small, thin prints like this, PLA needs a fair bit of airflow to solidify before the next layer goes down. Your printer doesn't appear to have a proper print-cooling fan, so I have two suggestions:
Print two or even three of the part at the same time, spaced a fair distance ... |
Under extrusion when starting outer wall See the pictures below. I have a severe under extrusion when the printer starts the outer wall, which is resolved by the time it finishes the outer wall. It starts the layer in the same place every time, so it results in this vertical line, on one side of which is fine (where it... | Based on other comments, answers, and question edits so far, in addition to your original question, I believe there are possibly two things going on here: incorrect retraction settings, including a misunderstanding of which settings are relevant and what they do, and issues related to slow acceleration. Both relate to ... |
Should I include fillets on my 3d printed parts? A fillet is like a rounded corner but on the inside of the corner.
Does it make a difference (structurally) to use fillets on a 3d printed part? | If your part needs structural support, then the word is: absolutely. Fillets provide the added support when you need it. If your part has a meeting line which is sharp - 90° (or perpendicular), there is a natural stress riser in your design. This is a weak spot where a crack can form. If strength is needed and the fill... |
Why could my opaque PETG be printing "transparent" in certain places? I'm printing with opaque grey PETG on glass. The intention is to produce a house number plate, so a shiny, production quality finish on the bottom. For this reason, extruding at 245 °C with a bed at 95 °C, to give a perfect glass finish wit... | Are you using Z-hop? Is there any play in the Z-axis direction? It appears that parts of the first layer are printed much thinner than other parts.
What can happen if there is a little play in the Z-axis direction that the nozzle doesn't return to the same level after a Z-hop movement (e.g. backlash in the leadscrew n... |
Combing and Coasting Here is my understanding of Coasting: Coasting stops extruding early in a move so that the string itself will finish the layer.
Here is my understanding of Combing: Combing reduces the need to retract during travel moves by making sure that the nozzle oozes where you want it to on the way to the n... | If anything, combing and coasting allow to mitigate problems that are printer and filament specific, rather than dependent on particular STL models.
Combing helps - as you imply in your question - with materials prone to oozing (e.g. PETG)
Coasting is particularly good for printers with a bowden extruders and low jer... |
Why 3d print has an ugly surface? Lately I'm having some issues with white PLA.
It sticks nicely to the print bed, but the very last layer of the print comes out really ugly.
I'm not a native english speaker, I don't know what is the proper term to describe what I see, so I'm attaching two pictures instead:
As yo... | This appears to be the result of your hot end (nozzle) temperature being slightly too high.
I'd recommend lowering your nozzle temperature by a few degrees and retrying the print. If the quality improves you're good. If it doesn't improve significantly try lowering a few degrees more.
If you lower the nozzle temper... |
What else can I use for a 3D Printer frame? I am building a 3d Printer here:
Build Volume: X:300mm, Y:300mm, Z:400mm
Mechanism: 1 motor, 2 leadscrew, 4 rod Z-axis; CoreXY head movement
Belt: GT2 6mm Steel Core
Pulley & Idler: 20T 6mm, Bore 5mm
Extruder: E3D Titan, Pancake NEMA 17
Hotend: E3D V6
Motors: XYZ: 0.9de... | Were I to build a frame now, I might use 1" square steel tubing members, welded together. You could also use aluminum, but for the same cross-section, the steel will be stronger. It is also easier to weld. If welding is not available, you are limited to shapes which can be bolted together. This is not impossible, b... |
How do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS and/or nylon work together in a single print? I have a dual-extruder printer with a separate heating element for each head, thus able to combine materials in a single print job even if they don't share a single temperature range.
Now the question: When (outside of using expensive dedicated s... | The answers are
yes
yes
probably
Which is to say, if you only want to use MaterialNumberTwo for disposable supports, then you should be fine. Presumably the slicer software is material-aware and adjusts the feed so the layer heights are the same for both materials. BUTbe careful that the support material isn't h... |
Determining exposure time for resin When a resin comes without a proper data sheet (!), or more likely when the timing for first layer and default layer exposure do not match your LED resin printer, how do you go about determining ideal exposure times? | Short answer: Use a calibration test.
Long answer: There are a bunch of calibration test files out there you can run. Ameralabs has a guide on how to read one of them and they have a link to download the STL at the bottom of the website. In short, the test file will print with a bunch of features that are hard for the ... |
How to create tappered thread in OpenSCAD? Is there any simple way of creating tappered thread in OpenSCAD? I need something like 10 mm in diameter at the end, 9 at the top and the height of 10 mm. | If your math and OpenSCAD skills are superior to mine, you may be able to make use of the OpenSCAD Metric Nut, Bolt & Threads Library located here:
OpenSCAD Metric Nut, Bolt & Threads Library
It uses various means to generate polygons about a radius and includes the formulae for partial revolutions. It is pres... |
Applying Kapton Tape To Bed Plate There must be a trick to doing a good job of applying Kapton tape on a printer bed plate…
We built a Bukobot and even with a great deal of care ended up with bubbles under the tape and occasional overlaps. I'd appreciate any pointers. | Try using a solution made for applying window tint, maybe even soapy water. Squeegee it out, heat the bed for a bit and you should be good to go.
This video demonstrates the process. |
Using heat-set inserts with SLA printed part I have an SLA printed part I want to put a brass threaded insert in using a soldering iron. The insert is slightly larger than the hole so I would assume the edge will melt and re-freeze around the teeth. Are there any issues with melting SLA or this idea in general? | The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a thermoset plastic, as opposed to the thermoplastic plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it can not be melted. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot eno... |
Through what methods and mechanisms can a multi-material FDM printer operate? I now own the Prusa3D MMU2. The benefits, costs, and experience others have had is well documented. I am interested in rebuilding my large, home-designed delta machine to be multi-material, and don't want to overlook strategies I haven't co... | Let's look at various methods:
Multiple Hotends
The oldest version and one of the best to print materials at vastly different print temperatures (like printing a cheaper PLA infill into a Polycarbonate shell - the print temperature difference is 60-100 °C) is to have 2 or more hotends. This way also avoids the need f... |
Nozzle moves very slowly from home to start position I´m currently working on a custom delta printer running Marlin 1.0.2 firmware. To control it I´m using the Repetier Host software with the onboard Cura software to slice my objects. The printing works fine but it takes the nozzle nearly 5 minutes to move from the hom... | I had the same problem, and I solved it by changing the Z-Axis Feed Rate to a much higher value (1000 mm/min.) in Repetier Host via Config -> Printer Settings -> Printer. |
Is it safe to use a 3D printed icing smoother? I want to 3d print my own icing smoothers, but I'm not sure if its safe to have plastic from a 3D printer in contact with cake icing. Is there any harm in this? | As mentioned, FDM 3D printed parts are flawed for food service and prep use regardless of the material, because of the small gaps between lines where bacteria can grow, and because your printer isn't used in a way to keep it from introducing contaminants into otherwise clean material.
However, there are some ways aroun... |
Can 3D printers print details in the 1/10 of the micrometer for metals? I'm starting to get familiar with 3D printers. I wish to know if printing details the size of 10-7 m (3.9*10-6 in) is possible these days with metals or any other material.
If anyone has information or articles as leads, I would really a... | You can get the 0.1 micron (100 nm) resolution with a 2-photon 3D printer, but only in a polymer resin. Nanoscribe, in Germany, pioneered this technology, see Mechanical Microstructures.
Their commercial printer, the Photonic Professional GT, is about $350,000 US with software and accessories. There is some work be... |
Export firmware as a .hex Because .hex files can be installed without any need of an Arduino (serving as an ISP) to flash the firmware on Creality machines I was wondering, if firmware compiled via some other means (for example the Repetier firmware or Arduino) could be exported as a .hex file. | Current versions of Arduino IDE
Use the menu option in the Arduino IDE:
Sketch ► Export Compiled Binary
See post #6 from the thread How to get hex file from arduino files ?:
Well, since it was bumped it's worth mentioning there is a new way to
do this added in Arduino IDE 1.6.5:
Sketch > Export Compile... |
Step motors vibrate, don't move at all (Prusa I3) Recently, I changed my RAMPS 1.4 card (because there was a problem with the power output).So I bought this new one, and an Arduino Mega.I didn'T change the code (Marlin 1.3.3).I used the same stepsticks (a4988).I plugged my motors to the Ramps card. When I give them the... | Usually if they get too hot you have to adjust the amperage by turning the little potentiometer on the A4988 (turn left until you can move the motor by hand, turn right until you cant, add a little bit like 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn).
But this:
I used a different stepstick RAMPS card and Mega, they worked perfectly.
... |
Extruder motor does not turn When printing from Cura on my laptop via USB, my extruder motor does not turn to extrude filament. However, when I use the "move axis" command in the firmware (on the little screen on the printer), it seems to work fine, extruding plastic smoothly. The nozzle temperature is where it should ... | It turns out the problem was a firmware issue. Using the gcode below (from David Lotts in the comments), I was able to determine that the extruder was running backwards. A flag in the firmware reversed it, solving the problem.
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E20 ;extrude 2... |
Problems with support interface since cura 3.1 Since i updated Cura from 2.7. to 3.1. I have a really hard time at configuration and especially removing the support interfaces. The update automatically uses the settings from the old version, but as I said: it doesn't work anymore.
I even tried to create a test print w... | In Cura 3.1 to 3.2.1 (date today is 2018-Feb-24): The Support Z Distance only changes the Support Bottom Distance and NOT the Support Top Distance. By activating the two sub-options you can configure this again. |
Linking an Arduino Mega with RAMPS and an Arduino Uno with CNC Shield to control more stepper motors using Marlin firmware I've been looking for this for a while, and it looks like no one has tried it before.
Does anyone know if there is a way to link an Arduino Mega with RAMPS as master, with an Arduino Uno with a CN... | so points to that case:
how are you going to sync master/slave?
adding more steppers to master (even only for pushing control to slave) will limit speed in the whole system (this is mainly one of the reasons why we shall go to 32-bit platforms to print faster).
As marlin will give you a good grasp to convert g-code... |
Strange stringing-like activity when printing face shields I'm printing stacked Prusa COVID-19 face shields on a modded Ender 3. It works fairly well until the second layer of masks, where we get this weird effect that's kind of like stringing. It looks like the curve is becoming "low poly." I'm sorry that I can't be m... | This isn't stringing. It's failure to adhere to the previous layer, so tension in the newly extruded material just makes it form a straight line until it bonds to something again. Are you used to printing PETG? You didn't mention fan settings, but having any cooling fan at all will cause failure of layers to bond. Your... |
Can you cure resin with sunlight through a window? If I set my prints on the window sill (indoors) will the sunlight still be able to cure the resin? The problem with setting them outside is the wind knocking them over. | The glass will block most of the uv light; but not all. It will depend on the type of light that the resin is sensitive to; in order to determine if it will continue to cure behind a glass window in direct sunlight. Some resins also sensitive to blue light. You will need to look at the material data sheet for the resin... |
Why won't makerbot accept an STL file from Blender? Our library system just put a 3D printer in one of the branches. I have used SketchUp on the library computers for a number of years just to do artsy things. Suddenly, I have the opportunity to actually print something. (I'm really not sure why the libraries have Sket... | Here is what I suggest you try. If you have a file that you can view/edit in blender I would export it as both STL and OBJ formats. Then take those files and upload them to Netfabb (https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/) and get a "repaired" file. Have the library try again with the repaired STL and OBJ files. If this doe... |
Z-offset: 0.2 mm, 0.1 mm or the thickness of paper? So, I'm pretty new to 3D Printing, and to quote Spock from Wrath of Khan I would say "He is intelligent, but not experienced". Now everything I have been reading about Z-offset seems to talk about a 0.2 mm gap and using a piece of paper.
Wishing to be accura... | They are all generic guidelines. Don't count on them too much.
Rather, get an approximate Z-offset value, then print a solid 30x30x5 mm cube.
If, starting from the third-fourth layer, you see some over-extrusion, you need to adjust the extrusion multiplier or the E steps calibration and reprint.
Once the solid cube loo... |
Tevo Tarantula I3 firmware I've been trying to get something decent printed for days but nothing works! I have a Tarantula Tevo i3 MKS Base V1.4 and have done a lot of trial & plenty of error. Still I am puzzled to get good prints.
What is the stock firmware for a single extruder regular/large bed firmware & ... | Answer for "2)":
The default firmware seems to be Repetier. It also includes Bed leveling (see documentation):
https://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/z-probing/
Marlin includes the Auto Bed Leveling feature too. You need to enable it by editing the Configuration.h file.
Bed size settings are there ... |
How to remove adhered nylon from build platform? As the title suggests, I am looking to remove nylon that has adhered strongly to my build platform. Mechanical methods (ex. scraping) haven't yielded results, so I was hoping for a solvent or something that would remove the adhered nylon.
Also, the parts themselves remo... | One important and missing aspect of your question is what is your build platform? Glass is likely to give you the best results, while aluminum has some risks, depending on your choice of solvents.
My hasty research at first showed Glacial Acetic Acid to be a candidate, but as a very strong acid, it will require some c... |
Printrboard Rev. D - RX1 and TX1 (second serial port) / Marlin I am trying to make Marlin use the RX1 and TX1 pins that are in the EXP1 connection. I am connecting those pins to the TX, RX of an Arduino.
The Configuration.h file has a SERIAL_PORT define, normally configured to be 0, but supposedly changeable.
What s... | I was able to resolve this issue:
I moved to Marlin 1.1.9 (the final release of the 1.1.x versions).
I made a fork, for those who would like to see the changes. Also summarized below.
The RX1 and TX1 pins are well identified in the question. I connected those directly to the HC-06 bluetooth module (using a voltage d... |
Ender 3 is capable of food safe printing? I've been looking into the viability of manufacturing a replacement part for a kitchen blender that has a broken part. I found this page that talks about what makes a print food safe. One of the items mentioned was:
... a brass extruder may contain lead, and lead contaminat... | Food packaging needs to comply with regulations. One certification agency informing about these (and their service to certify for them) is TÜV Süd, another is SAI global. A summary of the GFSI can be found here. Inform yourself about the standards you wish to apply! The stack can not give legally binding answers.
No
... |
Anet A8 Z-Probe Bed Positioning going outside of bounds I have an Anet A8 with the Anet 1.7 board, Skynet3d v2.3.2, and the stock sensor. I originally had this configuration with the stock extruder, but recently purchased an E3D v6 clone with a Bowden extruder. After installing a new bracket I had printed (TNS E3D v6 B... | If you have done major revisions to the printhead by changing to another carriage, it could be that the nozzle in the carriage is not at the exact position as in the previous carriage.
So, have you made sure that the new carriage has the appropriate values so that the nozzle is at (0, 0) when commanded to that positio... |
RAMPS board - no power to heatbed I'm setting up my first 3D Printer, a Prusa i3 MK2 clone.
When I try to heat the bed, nothing happens. Then Marlin throws this error after a while:
Bed Heating Failed
PRINTER HALTED
Please reset
In Pronterface I see this in the console:
Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heat... | Without testing the board(s) completely, by probing each component, it would be a bit hard to tell precisely. Your best bet might be to try it and see if it works ok, and if not, you'll see exactly what doesn't work... if that makes sense. Whilst not exactly the same issue, this answer, to the question How drastic is r... |
Would adding fiberglass packaging tape to a bowden tube be beneficial? I came across this suggestion on the klipper github, https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/permalink/192106034761003/. In order to reduce the stretching in the bowden tube you can add fiberglass packaging tape lengthwise along the tube. This... | The question seems to be built on a false premise, namely that the major extrude/retract errors in a Bowden design come from tube stretch. The PTFE tube is not significantly elastic, actually it is reasonably stiff so there is minimal scope for improvement here.
A longer tube will contribute to degraded precision, but... |
How important is it to move the printer's controller board outside of an enclosure? I am building an enclosure for an Ender 3 Pro printer, and am planning on the power supply and LCD unit being outside the enclosure. How important is it to move the printer controller (where the SD card is inserted) outside the enclosu... | It depends on what kinds of prints you make, and especially what kind of materials you want to use.
Certain materials (ABS especially, but also PETG to some degree) will print much better if the entire build area, which usually includes the printer chassis and controls, is enclosed to protect from drafts and allow a mu... |
How could I keep the material on the print plate from bending up on a makerbot 2? I printed a big base for a model, but the corners of the bottom bent up, making the whole base rock when set on a table. Is there a quick fix for a makerbot2 without a heated plate? | Consider using a different material. Since you're on a replicator 2 you're probably not printing with ABS (which would be a terrible choice for a large, flat model) but probably with PLA. Perhaps you could try printing with PET(G) instead, which tends to warp even less.
You could try modifying your model a little. If y... |
How to choose printer with dual extruder? I use Prusa i3 with one extruder for some years and I would like to print from one material in two colors or from different materials for one model. Therefore I'm lookig for new printer with dual extruder.
Is there some way how to measure and/or compare quality of printers wit... | As you suggest yourself, ordering test prints of some model is one way to do it.
3D Hubs and MakeXYZ allows you to get your model printed by hobbyists and small businesses for a fair price. Both sites also allow you to order prints based on printer type, which I believe is what you may be looking for.
On 3D Hubs, vi... |
How do I concave an image to create a 3D file for use in a 3D printer? How can I print an embossed image in a concaved shape?
Like a big saucer. I will use this an a mold for a project.
So far I've found lots of software with huge spread of features. It's sort of overwhelming. There is lots of ways to create images i... | What you describe, sounds like you want to create a lithophane; a pattern etched or engraved on a thin translucent base material (in your case a bowl) that can only be seen clearly when backlit with a light source behind it. Apparently you want to use it for another purpose.
Special software and or scripts that transf... |
Understanding of the auto bed leveling process (BLTouch) I just installed my BLTouch clone (Marlin 1.8) on my Anycubic i3 Mega Ultrabase and finding confusing information about the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER or the M851 command.
I understand M851 command does the same as Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER in the Configurat... | What may be confusing is the use of the naming of the mechanism "Auto Bed Levelling", or short ABL, does not make your build plate to level itself with respect to the frame of the printer1). Hence you are instructed to always tram (level is rather misleading as it doesn't involve bubble levelling, instead it ... |
How do I 3D-print fair dice? As 3D printers become more and more reliable, their prints get better and better. But FDM printers do have their problems too: you print tiny ovals that smooch together at the edges, and infill makes it awkward at times. So, how do I make a 3D-printed die fair (as in: not favoring one side ... | This is going to become a 3-step answer, as 3D Printing uses 3 different steps:
Design, Slicing & Material choice before I elaborate alternate ways to some fair dice. Yet, we start with the material, as we need to know about it first. In this case it does impact everything from design to slicing and the print.
Var... |
preventing my printer nozzle from getting too dull, from nothing but PLA filament I had a new Extruder tip on my Ender 3 3D printer. the tip looked like the left tip in the below image. After I have been using it for about 5 months, the tip got dull/flat, like the tip on the right in the below image.
The only filament ... | Your extruder nozzle will wear from the inside out if you are using abrasive filaments, which include carbon fiber, wood type filaments, glow-in-the-dark and many other types.
Because they are abrasive, removing material from the inside also thins the cone shape of the outside (point) of the nozzle.
The solution is to ... |
Any video tutorial for 3D printing I am new here and would like to work on a project to 3D print a precision prototype. What is the most affordable way to do it? How do I go about it? | [The question ask asked is vague, but since you are new it is understandable.]
If you want to build a precision prototype then you have to decide on the level of precision that is necessary. There are different types of 3D printers and services available which give various levels of precision and functionality.
Fused... |
Digital vs. analog pins In the RAMPS v1.4 board, it seems like the X, Y, and Z motors all use at least one analog pin, while the extruder motors are entirely digital. See just the top left block of this photo:
Is there any advantage to using analog vs. digital pins in the motors?
As far as I can tell the traditiona... | "Analog pin" is misleading nomenclature. Every pin is a digtal pin, but some digital pins happen to also be connected to the analog-to-digital converter and can thus also handle measuring analog signals.
Every analog pin can also serve as a perfectly good digital pin. The reverse is not true; if something requires an ... |
Filament spreading apart and stringy on first layer I keep having this issue on prints where the first layer has stringy lines that don't stick together.
I've tried the following things
Replaced nozzle and throat
Used new filament (to rule out filament that may have absorbed moisture)
Printed at 180, 200 (my usual ... | I would try two things you didn't mention; a bed leveling (this looks a little close) and an e-stepper calibration. The layer looks thin and under-extruded, and two common culprits are the bed height being too close ("oversquishing" the first layer which reduces flow rate and adhesion), and the e-stepper not feeding as... |
Bottom Layer Compression (over extrusion) - Can't get rid of it I've been trying to find a solution to a problem I've been having recently whereby the bottom layers of my print (1.2 mm; 12 layers) are either being compressed. over extruded or both. The problem results in the nozzle being dragged through previously... | The first thing that comes to mind is that, even though you have levelled the bed, the print nozzle may be too close causing too much "squish" on the first layer. Squish isn't bad as it promotes adhesion, but in your case, as you are looking for finer tolerances on the holes, it may be a problem. I use a feeler gauge a... |
What does it mean when they say up to 256 interpolation and 16 micro stepping for the TMC step sticks? I am planning to get a few TMC step sticks for my 3D printer.
I wanted to know what does 256 interpolation with 16 micro stepping mean, in simple terms?
Does it help? If so, how? | Higher microstepping numbers result in smoother movement.
However, printer control boards are limited in how many steps the can generate per second - as low as 10'000 steps/s on an 8-bit AVR board running Marlin.
To get the benefits of smoother microstepping, without adding load to your control board, TMC stepper driv... |
How is the E argument calculated for a given G1 command? I'm working on building a tool to generate G-code (a simpler slicer), and I'm trying to calculate how much filament should be extruded per movement.
Is there a standard calculation for this? Something like:
layer height * flow % * extruder diameter * distance
... | Basically, all movements are (small) straight lines, the volume of a straight line is easily calculated as you already guessed.
To calculate the volume to be extruded you multiply the following parameters:
the layer height (h)
flow modifier (e.g. as pertectage) (SF)
extruder nozzle diameter (d)
distance of the strai... |
Ender 3 Marlin - Incorrect temperature I've updated to Marlin 2.0.7 when I set up a BLTouch and now it seems the temperature does not match the display.
Before the update, I was printing with PLA filament at 205 °C and bed at 60 °C without issue.
After the update, my prints are full of stringing, so I decided to lower... | When you have updated to Marlin, you were supposed to configure it carefully. This is maybe laborious and sometimes difficult procedure, but very important. Basic guidelines are described in Configuring Marlin official guide.
I assume that you obviously did it, at least in some part to enable BLTouch.
You should review... |
Still got poor printing quality after calibrating my Anycubic Predator I've got an Anycubic Predator (aka Anycubic D). I followed the official instructions and leveled my printer.
The first annoying problem I ran into is that after the auto-leveling, the level test printing shows that the printer wasn't leveled at al... | A few tenths of a millimeter are pretty common for 3D printed parts; these are related to the printer hardware. These inaccuracies can be exaggerated by over- or under-extrusion; e.g. if too much filament is extruded, it increases the outer dimensions (and decreases the inner dimensions of holes).
The images show some... |
3D Printer does not print whole object Just took delivery of a massive Anycubic Chiron to my house and have been trying to get it printing successfully for supplies for fellow clinic staff. For some reason, it is only printing a portion of the test shape that Cura is putting out. I am using 1.75 mm ABS Filament, w... | It looks like either the mechanical travel is constrained or, possibly you have the origin of the X-Y plane in the wrong place in Cura. Usually Cura won't even slice if it thinks the object extends past the printable area, so check the display in Cura "Layer View."
If that's OK, then try using the control panel on yo... |
How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset) When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while there is some space left at the opposite si... | When centered in the slicer correctly, without offsets defined in the slicer, the printer is most probably incorrectly configured! Luckily you can do something about that! Basically, you will have to calibrate the printer for a new center.
Printer origin?
First of all, the firmware determines where your origin of the p... |
Comparative design methods for joints that will be joined together I want to 3D-print some parts that will be later joined together along a seam. When modeling these separate parts, what are some methods that work well with 3D-printed pieces? For example, if I were doing wood working, I might choose dowel and pin joint... | One of my favorite techniques is to join pieces with screws, and include a tapered feature that helps align the parts. A single screw can give a very strong joint, that is well-aligned and won't twist. Another advantage is that such joints can be printed in any orientation, since the tapered feature can be designed wit... |
How do I compute the surface & volume of a large amount of STL files? Please, how do I compute the surface & volume of a large amount of STL files ?
I have over 3000 STL files, and I want to know their respective volumes and surfaces. I will use this data to be able to identify the biggest part, the one with the b... | You could use the Python console of FreeCAD. Issuing the following commands
FreeCAD.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Shape.Area
FreeCAD.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Shape.Volume
will output the area and the volume of the object, respectively.
I don't know how to access the console output from outside FreeCAD, but there i... |
ROKO bed levelling sensor I was sent my sensor (a ROKO) and I plugged it in with the pins in the wrong order, would this break my sensor? If so is there anything I could do? | I can't comment for the specific sensor you have, but in general, yes, if you plug something in backwards you have a chance of breaking it - and whatever you plug it into - permanently.
You might have gotten lucky, though - but short of testing the sensor to see whether it will work there is no way to find out.
Consi... |
Is it possible to know which is the correct temperature range and speed for any model? Trying to print a 3D model for my mobile phone, but I see that when printing the sides, being thin, increases the retraction and the recoil seems a little abrupt and makes a coarse sound.
I would like to know if it is possible to kn... | The first indication for print speed and temperature should be taken from the box the filament comes in. Generally it specifies temperature ranges for the hotend and the heated bed. Sometime, mostly online, more parameters can be found amongst which is the printing speed.
Do note that temperature and printing speed a... |
What does the stainless steel plug do in the E3D Kraken cooler block? In the E3D Kraken cooler block, there is a big, 10 mm grub screw, along the side of the cooler block.
I watched the entire Kraken assembly video:
There was no mention of this very thick grub screw. The E3D Kra... | The connecting channel between the two brass barbed hose fittings needs to be drilled out. To open that channel, a hole is drilled into the side to connect the two top holes (which have the brass fittings screwed into them). The hole doesn't need to penetrate both sides, but it must get through one side.
The grub sc... |
Anet A6, Marlin 1.1.x, bed leveling with sensor probe I have an Anet A6, an SN04 sensor for the Z-axis, and Marlin 1.1.x software that has automatic bed leveling enabled.
My question is (looking at the image below): "It seems my bed leveling is not working correctly. What can I do to improve it?"
You can see... | Eventually it was a mixture of things that sort of solved this.
Setting the Z-offset a bit more tight helped some
Probing with more gridpoints helped
Instead of using glue, I used painterstape. Way easier to refresh and easier to take prints off. I wanted to try kapton tape, but painterstape was good enough for now.
M... |
Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)? I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface.
I read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main contributor to the power consumption of a printer.
As I do s... | There are three reasons (I can think of):
A large problem you'd face with allowing the bed to cool after first layer is you stand the chance of losing adhesion after it cools. When you heat the bed, it expands somewhat. When it cools it contracts. It has been known for parts to actually pop off the bed if left on the... |
Replacing ceramic tape on Wanhao Duplicator i3 I need new ceramic tape for my 3D printer. Does it matter which I get? Can I just get the cheapest? Is there a quality difference? | I have a wanhao dup i3 too. It does not matter a lot which ceramic wadding and / or kapton you use. The more you seal off, the better it works. If you have a full metal hotend and a powerful cooling blower and need temps above 250 celcius, you might want to do the best you can with a good padding of ceramic and kapton... |
Uniform squishy infill I try to print a stamp with flexible filaments. The problem I encounter is that the filament is flexible, but not soft. This leads to small differences in height to parts of the stamp not working.
One solution would be to add a small 'cushion' to add some squishyness to the stamp. I designed the... | As the rubber stamp needs to be soft in one axis for the whole area, you could use an infill that causes the same softness in all directions, but is sliced as such that the stamp experiences the same softness. Alternatively you can use the specific infill types for flexibility, but beware of the orientation:
Concentr... |
Lower Layers are messy This picture pretty much shows the problem:
I print on a CR-10 and this thing is pretty much just a problem factory. Anyways, the latest problem that was never there before is that for some reason the first 2-4mm of the print are totally messed up like in the picture. That isnt that much of a p... | Referring to the scratching, this could indicate that the nozzle is a little too close to the bed. This can be caused by a non-uniform bed, but that is unlikely in your case as you have tried printing on different areas of the build plate, this implies that the bed is correctly levelled. Still, the nozzle may be too cl... |
Does anyone know the thread size (pitch and lead) of the Anet A8's lead screw? I bought a new printer, and unfortunately the left nut for the lead screw isn't tapped.
Does anyone know the thread size, w.r.t. both pitch and lead, of the lead screws? | I have the Anet A8, I confirm the threads are Tr8x8(p2). This is explained as "Tr" for trapezoidal thread followed by the nominal diameter in mm. The digits after the "x" denotes the lead of the screw (how much does the nut advance per revolution). The value between the brackets "p2" denotes the pitch. This means that ... |
Is my printer over extruding? I'm getting some slight pooling on the end of straight lines on my Ender-3
Is this due to over extruding? Or some other issue? | It looks like you some of your layers are printing with 100% infill.
If you are noticing plastic still coming out at the end of lines then I think your pressure in the nozzle is high when it is getting to the end of those lines and that pressure is pushing out the extra plastic.
That could be because your over extru... |
3d printer not printing circles correctly I am having issue with my new printer it is not printing circles correctly although I have change firmware and stepping of motor
advise if anyone know the solution. | Possible causes for the printer not printing correct dimensions:
Incorrect number of steps/mm in firmware settings
Belts are not tight enough
Pulley slips on the shaft
Looking at the picture, I would go for the first case, because distortion looks regular. Try checking microstep settings on your board, and settings... |
Configuration of the Anet A6 full graphic LCD 12864 on an Anet A8 I finished fixing my Anet A8 about the 3DTouch sensor working with the LCD2004 stock display, I am installing the full graphic display LCD 12864 (for Anet A6) but when I compile Marlin 1.1.9 the following error appears:
Arduino: 1.8.9 (Windows 7), Shee... | To downsize the firmware you can manually disable a lot of less useful stuff. E.g. why have 2 pre-heating profiles for PLA and ABS while you can set hotend and heated bed manually.
One of the largest memory savers is disabling arc support, G2/G3 commands aren't used by most slicer programs. From Configuration_adv.h c... |
Is there any setting that could allow me to print this overhang without support? I've been asked to print a set of this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2200026
I used Slicer with my default settings for my FLSun printer which includes support and 0.2mm layer height and that rail was printed as whole block with so... | First of all a minor correction: the feature you are trying to print is not a bridge (which is an unsupported length of filament between two parts of the print) but rather a overhang (which is an unsupported length of filament supported only at one end).
The reason why your overhang is impossible to print without supp... |
3D printing enclosure with LED indication symbols -- is this possible? I am looking to print an enclosure, which will have a PCB inside with some LED indicators. I was wondering if it is possible to 3D print the enclosure such that the following look can be achieved? What material and technique?
When LEDs are off, it ... | Achieving this with 3D printing would be quite difficult, and you might be better served by creating this effect some other way (I would personally recommend getting some inkjet transparencies and stacking a few layers together: an entirely black layer, and a few layers with the symbols in negative space).
One way tha... |
Can RAMPS 1.4 be used for a 3D printer? I am making a DIY 3D printer on a budget. So, I came across a kit with RAMPS 1.4 with an Arduino Uno which is really a great price. But, I don't know if the RAMPS board and the stepper driver (DRV8825) which it supplies, can be used to make a 3D printer. And also will it come wit... | To answer your question, yes, RAMPS 1.4 can be used for a 3D printer, but note that it is an outdated platform.
But...
From the supplied image can be concluded that the seller doesn't have a clue what is being sold in the webshop ( e.g. incorrect naming for the shield, 3 stepper motors and 4 stepper drivers?!?).
This i... |
Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near future and I have a spare power ... | Short answer YES. You can run it from a different power supply at a higher voltage. Also it has a PC817 Optical isolator (for some reason) therefore the second power supply and your main board should not be electrically connected at all. |
Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing? Really strange observation with my MP Select Mini V2 printing PLA. I've printed a dual-fan shroud so I can have a dedicated part-cooling fan. I've noticed that when I turn it on, the extruder starts stringing everywhere. Little tiny spider-web wisps. No amount of temperatur... | Prior to a move the print cooling fan causes the filament to cool on the outside while the nozzle is still hot, when it then moves it causes a strings to form that will be cooled instantly. This means that the cooling you have is too much and should be reduced.
This printer has a single fan to cool the cold-end and th... |
How to paint ABS to look like wood I have a piece printed in white ABS, which is a half-scale replica of an unvarnished oak sculpture. After sanding off the worst of the layer lines, I'd like to paint it to get a nice wood finish. I believe that most hobby paints should stick fine, but how should I paint it to get a ni... | I found step-by-step instructions on Instructables specific to 3D-printed parts. In summary:
Sand and brush with acetone for a smooth finish (I guess the acetone vapour treatment would work as well.)
Prime with plastic primer
Spray-paint with a satin, nutmeg-coloured base coat
Add grain with darker, acrylic paint usi... |
Flexible filament how to print a hollow "sleeve" I need to print a flexible, hollow "sleeve" or "cover" for an elongated part, kind of like a soft "skin" for a "finger" (see pic). I'm not sure how to approach the hollow space problem, i.e. how to print a flexible surface that is above an enclosed, hollow space. I could... | Print orientation is usually the key to print with a minimum of supports. If you print this part with the sharp point down, you will get some support structures on the outside for overhang support to prevent it from tipping over, but no support on the inside. |
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